Hi,
In our house with two full bathrooms I'd like to replace our 40 gallon gas water heater with a tankless/endless-water heater.
Any advice on where to start looking for information on what kind of heaters might be best are really appreciated. I really have no idea where to even start...
Hey, thanks for all the tips guys! I'll definitely look into the Panasonic fan option.
I also like the tip of the copper plate. I may just do without mirror heating, but if I decide to go for it still, then I'll work out the copper plate setup.
- Erik
Interesting tip about applying that film, but I am not sure how that would make the mirror look -- I'm sure you can notice it in some way.
My wife has been in a hotel where the mirror was heated, and it worked beautifully. We read somewhere that mirrors can be easily heated by running the...
Hi,
I am about to solder my copper waterlines in a new bathroom, and I'm considering routing the shower's hot-water supply line behind the bathroom mirror so it's automatically heated whenever someone takes a shower. I know that there are electric heating pads that can do the same, i.e...
Note: I'm not a plumber, so make sure to get a second opinion on this from HJ for example.
Since the toilet is right next to the stack, I don't think you need to vent it. If you were to use a 3" toilet drain, you'd have to vent it if it were at least 6 feet away from the stack {UPC}, but...
It's a bit of a mystery to me what they used for the original flange back in 1997, as it does seem to be a short straight flange of unusual diameter (at the top somewhat larger than 4", not matching any of the sizes I've seen at Home Depot, with a even wider female end underneath it) that is...
Right, I see what you mean.
It's not that I glued a 4x3 flange into the 4" pipe, though. That flange was already there, and my piping is simply not touching it. What I did do is glue a straight coupler into the 4" pipe that's deeper below, and glued the 3" into that coupler. That coupler...
Yes, I used one of those shielded couplings already. I have another one still, which I'll use for the installation of the new T.
Underneath the concrete, under the flange, the 4" pipe makes a 90º long sweep towards the main drain.
The wall-mounted toilet is a Duravit Darling, from which...
I will replace that rubber T with a PVC one. Home Depot indeed has not heard of slip couplings -- I wanted to use that instead of the rubber coupling on the other end -- but I can connect the new PVC T with a rubber coupling on one of its legs.
About the 3" going into the existing flange...
Thanks for your quick reply.
The 3" 90º elbow is cemented into an adapter that takes a 3" and is made to fit inside a 4" pipe. Below the existing flange is a 4" pipe, in which this adapter is cemented in place. It's a perfect fit, with the adapter sticking 2 inches into the 4" pipe below...
I'm remodeling our half-bath into a full bathroom, moving the toilet and sink to a different location, and building a tiled shower.
I posted my PVC rough-in plan here a few days ago: https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1731
Worked out Plan B today. Still have to extend the 3"...
What is the AHJ?
I just drew this up in Photoshop. If you look at this page: http://www.staffassoc.com/dpfonts/sampfont.pdf , then you'll see an example of a PVC Pipe font. I zoomed in on this page, took some screen dumps, imported those in Photoshop and derived all the shapes from that. I...
Plan C
Right, that makes sense -- see new rough-in diagram below.
The trap arm of the sink will only be about a foot. I can meet the 6 ft requirement for the toilet drain; in fact I can place the vent such that it will tap into the toilet drain at about 5 ft, making the sink trap arm a...
No no, not planning to wet vent horizontally. The vent coming in horizontally is a dry vent.
I would just prefer to vent the 3" toilet drain through the vent that's already venting the sink. The couple of feet of vertical pipe between the sink's trap arm and the horizontal toilet drain...