Recent content by Eljay

Clog, You're right about that photo. Definitely not your eyes playing tricks on you. Our house's plumbing isn't the same way. And I've teed off the expansion tank after the shutoff valve. But good heads up for folks who might've glossed over that part in the manual. I wonder how many bladders...

Thanks, Mark. Won't the the brass fittings still eventually corrode at the water heater? If they don't leak, would stainless steel 304 or 316 threaded fittings be better (though I have read that there are issues with galling)? I had seen pictures of folks using fittings at the water heater...

I can solder. I just don't claim to be good at it. o_O:eek: I've recently soldered about a dozen joints installing a water softener with 1" pipe. The joints definitely aren't pretty. But they don't leak. Do these pictures help?

We moved into a home with a PRV but no water heater expansion tank. Leaks around the house have made installing an expansion tank a priority. Better late than never. I see many folks installing tanks horizontally with/without straps or vertically with the connection down. I'd just like to...

Your restraint is admirable, sir; you definitely could say, "I told you so!" I had seen your warnings to be wary of online companies here. I'm not going to name the vendor yet. I'm trying to work with them to see if they will honor the advertised system including the 2310 and make things...

Thank you. I can see the tank is filled about 31.5 out of 48 inches up. Does the general two thirds rule apply without gravel?

Anyone have experience with this safety float? I can't find much info on it other than here (post 36628). The pictures in that thread look identical to the one I received. The system should've included a 2310. But, this is what actually arrived. The vendor says it's a Canature part.

Given a 9"x48" media tank, how far up should the resin be filled assuming there is 1 cu. ft. inside? How much gravel should be inside if required?

I'm definitely feeling much better about the install. I'll be incorporating many suggestions above. But, I've also decided to order a plastic bypass and yoke since I think it'll make thingss easier and I won't have to worry as much about galling or corrosion with the steel bypass. So now...

Ah. Always saving the good stuff for people in the know I see. I had searched for it online. The only options for systems I saw were upwards of 50% higher price. I suppose I'll see how the 5600sxt performs and consider swapping it with a 5810 if necessary. Maybe then just put the 5600 on...

The plumbing is 1". So, I got the 1" Fleck bypass. I did see that the valve is 3/4". But I was told that it would be sufficient for a two bath home with two people. Was I given poor advice?

Looks great. I hadn't thought of that. So the Sharkbite elbows' ability to rotate wouldn't cause problems? Have you done/seen many installations similar to the one pictured using PTC fittings on the house plumbing side? On the bypass side, I suppose I could get a brass elbow like this...

A Fleck 5600sxt was purchased a couple of weeks back and will finally be arriving soon. I've been indecisive about how it should be installed. Quotes in the $300-400 range by local professionals had me considering doing it myself. As this would be the first time sweating copper, I thought I...

Our water softener, a Culligan Medalist from about 10 years ago, began leaking a little while back. I'll be purchasing a replacement unit, a Fleck 5600sxt, myself and would like someone to install it. Please message me if you do work around the Las Vegas area.

It doesn't quite match what's under the elbow in that diagram. But here are some photos. I dug around again and found nothing else is under the elbow. If the goal is to remove any restrictions to the flow of water aside from the the float valve when closed, then removing those two pieces...