Bathtub facet
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Dunbar Plumbing
Master Plumber
Do you know the brand name of faucet or maybe a picture of it?
Sounds like most of it may be dirt/debri caught between the seat and washer.
Sounds like most of it may be dirt/debri caught between the seat and washer.
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Grinding sounds like grit in there.
If you open the valve up all the way, it may clear it out.
Is this one you worked on before?
If you open the valve up all the way, it may clear it out.
Is this one you worked on before?
Mikey
Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
Maybe crud (technical term) on the valve stem threads? Open 'er up and have a look. Could just need to be cleaned and lubed.
Mikey
Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
Just the mention of a 10-mile runs makes me hurt
As for the faucet, can't really say without looking at it. In general, turn off the water supply, get out your tools and follow your nose. Typically there's a small cap in the end of the knob that hides the screw that holds the knob on the shaft. You can carefully pry the cap off, and unscrew the screw. Now the knob should be free to slide off the shaft, which is usually splined. It may require some gentle tapping and persuasion, and sometimes a puller. Once the knob is off the fun starts, because now you've got to figure out what keeps the valve stem from coming out, and remove that -- totally dependent on the faucet make & model, so you're on your own. Once that is removed, however, then just turn the valve stem in the "on" direction, and keep turning it until it comes out of the valve body (it's easier if you slide the knob back on and turn using the knob). Then you can examine the washer, threaded portion of the stem & valve body, and valve seat, clean, replace parts as needed, lubricate appropriately, and reassemble. There will undoubtedly be a devil in the details, which some of the real experts here will undoubtedly comment on...
As for the faucet, can't really say without looking at it. In general, turn off the water supply, get out your tools and follow your nose. Typically there's a small cap in the end of the knob that hides the screw that holds the knob on the shaft. You can carefully pry the cap off, and unscrew the screw. Now the knob should be free to slide off the shaft, which is usually splined. It may require some gentle tapping and persuasion, and sometimes a puller. Once the knob is off the fun starts, because now you've got to figure out what keeps the valve stem from coming out, and remove that -- totally dependent on the faucet make & model, so you're on your own. Once that is removed, however, then just turn the valve stem in the "on" direction, and keep turning it until it comes out of the valve body (it's easier if you slide the knob back on and turn using the knob). Then you can examine the washer, threaded portion of the stem & valve body, and valve seat, clean, replace parts as needed, lubricate appropriately, and reassemble. There will undoubtedly be a devil in the details, which some of the real experts here will undoubtedly comment on...
hj
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grit
If we knew the make and model of the faucet, and what was causing the grinding feeling, the diagnosis would be simple, as would giving directions for disassembling and flushing the faucet. But since we don't know anything about it, anything we tell you, even something as simple as removing the handles can have many different ways of doing it.
If we knew the make and model of the faucet, and what was causing the grinding feeling, the diagnosis would be simple, as would giving directions for disassembling and flushing the faucet. But since we don't know anything about it, anything we tell you, even something as simple as removing the handles can have many different ways of doing it.
