Heya there. Experiencing the same things right now
Except I am a step ahead of you, you might want to follow my thread.
I can tell you how I took my shower / tub (one piece) out, but there's probably a better way.
1. First I shut off the water in case I kill a pipe. I should have shut off the electric as I have SEVERAL electrical outlets behind my unit!
I then removed the tub spout, shower head, the overflow drain and the strainer of the tub (couldnt remove the drain itself...even with a drain wrench). I ALSO STUFFED A RAG in the holes of the drain to keep junk from falling in.
2. Next, I put jeans on and a long sleeved shirt and took A RESPIRATOR AND GOGGLES, along with every saw and blade that I owned, up into the bathroom after gutting EVERYTHING out of it, otherwise you will damage everything trying to get it out. Not a problem if you are removing the items to be replaced, however even then remove them so you can get this hunk of junk outta there. (vanity, toilet, etc etc)
3. I started by using a claw hammer and just wacking at the drywall (with the claw) ALL the way around the tub where the tub meets the drywall (NOTE: except along the floor) and hacking out/ exposing the flanges that are screwed/nailed to the studs. The drywall lays over little flanges of the tub/shower. Don't be bashfull about this, you new system will have to go into place and you will need to replace the drywall. At the very least you will have to cut the drywall back again after hacking to the stud to do a stud to stud repair and seam of the drywall.
4. Then I removed the screws/nails holding the unit together, and then took a break.
5. I started by grabbing the walls with my gloves, and physically cracking pieces of the walls off from the corner down towards the floor. This resulted in a bit of stain in my back, but less fiberglass dust blowing around the house.
6. OK now, grab an old sheet, and COVER the doorway. DO you know if your ceiling fan(vent) goes OUT of the house or just into the attic or into the floor ? If you are NOT 100% sure, DO NOT turn on the fan to ventilate. If you COULD have someone help you by holding a shop vac at teh end of your tools while you cut, you would greatly reduce your dust. You are about to saw fiberglass, and this is not a nice thing to do EVER. If you have pets or children, you risk hurting them - not to mention yourself if you do not contain the fiber materials blowing everywhere. WEAR A RESPIRATOR or AT THE VERY LEAST a TIGHT rag over your face and ESPECIALLY FULL EYE PROTECTION, not those cool looking sunglass saftey goggles...the goofy ones that are like ski goggles that suck to your face. With teh respirator and the goggles, you will be miserable and barely be able to see what you are doing, and you will probably sweat.
7. The sawing part was the hardest , for me. I couldn't find the one that I was happiest with. Probably the sawzall. When you saw near the walls, you risk hitting a pipe or electrical line. NOT GOOD. So what I did was set my circular saw to a depth of 1/4 of an inch (maybe a bit less) and cut as much as I could in 3x3 pieces, then I used a sawzall to cut the areas like around bends etc.
8. My advice. Get the walls down first. Then work with the tub. If you can cut some of the corner of the tub out, you can figit it out in one piece, stand it up and pull it out through the door and into the staging area where you will place your other scrap pieces into it. THESE PIECES ARE EXTREMELY SHARP. ANYONE HELPING YOU SHOULD WEAR JEANS AND FULL SHOES OR BOOTS. You can cut a 4" gash into your leg that is 1/2" deep VERY easily by slipping or having someone push the tub with a jagged edge against you.
Issues I encountered:
-My tub had a fiberous THICK bottom to it. No amount of cutting was going to allow me to cut this tube in half. I realized this too late, then realized that if I cut the back corner off, I could get the tub out. Maybe you are lucky enough to not have your tub stuck between two walls, I dunno but I assume you do.
-My drain would not remove...not matter what I tried. I actually drilled about 30 holes around the drain, to get it out because I broke all my blades on my jigsaw and sawzall working this POS out of my house lol. I only had one sawzall and 3 jigsaw blades. I broke them on the tub bottom with I thought would have been resting on some sort of support but didnt know better..so when it would hit the subfloor while I tried to cut the corners out to pull this out in two pieces, my blade would bend or break. DOH.
Ok very tired so excuse the gibberish, hope you can get an idea what I mean by this.
OH btw, let me save you about 10 hours of time by suggesting that you check out the centerlines of your drain in place now so that you buy what you need to match. Check Sterlings website. It looks like the options are (from the wall) 14.25, 15.5, and 17 "'s on center. Mine is 16 so I will have to adjust to fit the 15.5 one. The problme I am having is that there is a can light below to the kitchen that this runs against so I have no movement really. Then the next question is, roughing in a new valve (read my post) and installing the new drain.
I'm very frustrated at this piont because we pulled the tub/shower out 2 weeks ago, and finally made a decision on what to buy...and now it's on order. I have the shower faucet etc, but cant really do anything until I get teh tub and shower to figure out if it is going to go in without my having to take out more drywall, or???
S