The crummy sheet metal baseboards housing fin-tube are designed to promote convective heat transfer, and are primarily convectors, not radiators, though low double-digit percentage of the heat transfer is radiated when operated at a high temperature.
Cast-iron baseboards are more radiator than convector, though at least a double-digit percentage of the heat transfer is via convection, except at low temperature.
Assuming yours are fin-tube convectors you need a panel close to the sides of the fins to direct the air flow through the fins, with enough vertical to that air-channel box to give it some stack-effect to work with. The taller you make the stack, the more reliable the heat transfer is at lower water temperatures. Larger fin-tube convectors are typically 20-30" tall, with an open space below, and grille openings only at the top:
The enclosure in your picture would not be nearly as effective, since the fins are open to air flow at the sides, which cuts into the convective forces need to keep air moving through the fins. Making the grille openings only at the top 2" of the sides, or on the currently flat top would work. Keeping flat side of the enclosure no more than 1/4" away from the edges of the fins also reduces the amount of bypassing air, enhancing convection. If you don't mind the extra height, making it 12-16" tall instead of the typical 8-10" would also improve performance, as long as you keep the cross section of the exit-air openings at the top the same, and extend just the flat air-ducting sides.
View attachment 24347So I slapped this together.
The only problem is that the slats are touching the face board and keeping the cover from going flush to the wall. I need to use a wider board on the side and fix it to the wall.
To me this already looks 10 times better than the metal ones and was super easy.
Unless, of course, there is some other problem I don't see.
View attachment 24347
View attachment 24347
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I've also done a TON of research and want to do the same thing. How's it going? I've read about putting some insulation and using mesh on the front, but then plenty of people don't.
Any ideas?
Hi, Julia! Sorry for the delayed response. I was just following up here for a friend who wants to do the same thing. If you bought the house and actually want to tackle this project, then yes, it's totally worth it. I hate the older heater covers too and my solution is the cheapest, most aesthetically pleasing way I found to do it. With the right tools, I would say this project is a medium difficulty for a beginning.
I spent about $50 for wood per heater. They took me about an hour each to measure, cut, and paint. Depending on the length of your heaters, you could be spending more than that for the materials.
Tools:
Table saw for the cutting
Nail gun and compressor (Could be done by hand, but that's way more difficult and won't look as nice)
Materials:
I used all 1x6s pine pieces for these. That would probably work for you too.
Wood Glue
Paint of your choosing.
Basics:
Measure the length of your heater and add a few inches to each side (for clearance of the plumbing itself). The heaters need a minimum of 9 inches inside height. That's to get the air to actually move and increase the efficiency of the heaters. If you can go a little taller than that, I'd do it. Then, take a look at the picture above and adapt your length to the look of my heater cover. You'll probably want to draw a diagram and put measurements on there so you can see exactly what you'll be cutting.
I cut the side panels/legs at 9-inches in height so the inside measure was the minimum 9-inch requirement. I also took an inch off the width to make them 1x5s. The actual front panel (a 1x6 piece) should be the length of your heater, plus a couple inches on each side for clearance. The top panel panel should be a few inches longer than the front panel (6-ish total, 3-inch overhang on each end) if you like the overhang look, like my the picture above. From there, it's just cut, assemble and paint. Just make sure you have a good visual of the end result before you start cutting. Also, use some wood glue on all of your joints to improve the rigidity. These are in my kid's room, so I wanted to make them durable.