BreadSnob (pain boulange)
New Member
Greetings,
Bottom Line up front: doing a complete gut and rebuild of residential kitchen.
All countertops are 1-1/2" thick edge grain construction John Boos Co. Rock Maple (this is non-negotiable, they are already delivered)
* Need to decide on over-mount or under-mount sink.
(Very much would like to undermount a Houzer Cristadur HORIZONTD-100)
* Need to find the best adhesive for the job.
Long story:
While I was deployed to Afghanistan, our fridge crapped out. A handy friend of mine helped my wife install the new fridge. The cheap plastic supply line broke & flooded kitchen. No mold in walls (luckily) but base cabinets are gone, vinyl flooring peeling up. I just finished gutting the kitchen, and spent over 100 hours scraping the vinyl adhesive down to bare concrete. My "tile guy" leveled the substrate, installed Schluter-DITRA isolation membrane and laid the new tile. All the new countertops are in and awaiting the new base cabinets that are due in next Friday.
The ************ Mfg. specifies:
"A rubberized joint sealant should be used in all sink and basin applications.
Holes must be properly sealed with at least four coats of polyurethane.
Particular attention should be paid to the end grain."
Cutting the hole and sealing the block is not an issue for me, it's attaching the sink. I fully understand the inherent risks of this install: water & wood, seasonal expansion & contraction, etc. going in, I just want to mitigate the risks as much as possible by doing the best possible job up front. If i has to come out in 2 or 10 years, it will not be for lack of effort on my part.
Bottom Line up front: doing a complete gut and rebuild of residential kitchen.
All countertops are 1-1/2" thick edge grain construction John Boos Co. Rock Maple (this is non-negotiable, they are already delivered)
* Need to decide on over-mount or under-mount sink.
(Very much would like to undermount a Houzer Cristadur HORIZONTD-100)
* Need to find the best adhesive for the job.
Long story:
While I was deployed to Afghanistan, our fridge crapped out. A handy friend of mine helped my wife install the new fridge. The cheap plastic supply line broke & flooded kitchen. No mold in walls (luckily) but base cabinets are gone, vinyl flooring peeling up. I just finished gutting the kitchen, and spent over 100 hours scraping the vinyl adhesive down to bare concrete. My "tile guy" leveled the substrate, installed Schluter-DITRA isolation membrane and laid the new tile. All the new countertops are in and awaiting the new base cabinets that are due in next Friday.
The ************ Mfg. specifies:
"A rubberized joint sealant should be used in all sink and basin applications.
Holes must be properly sealed with at least four coats of polyurethane.
Particular attention should be paid to the end grain."
Cutting the hole and sealing the block is not an issue for me, it's attaching the sink. I fully understand the inherent risks of this install: water & wood, seasonal expansion & contraction, etc. going in, I just want to mitigate the risks as much as possible by doing the best possible job up front. If i has to come out in 2 or 10 years, it will not be for lack of effort on my part.
