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Thread: I touched up wood vanity & want to seal/clear coat. What's the best for a bathroom?

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    Default I touched up wood vanity & want to seal/clear coat. What's the best for a bathroom?

    It is a home depot stained all wood vanity. I want to seal it so the finish will last another 10 years.

    Also, water seeps under and swells the base and delaminates. Should I put a bead of silicone chalk along base?
    Suggestions?

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    Bueller? Anyone? Bueller? Bump.

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    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    I would put some concrete pavers under the cabinet to get it out of the water if this is a damp basement floor. If this is a bathroom or kitchen with only occasional spills, then the stuff that Terry uses on toilet bases may be a better choice than silicone.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-...3010/100201939

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I would use something non-wicking at the base of the cabinet.
    There is that much moisture on the floor there?
    Is it from the plumbing? Or is it ground water?

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    The moisture is just from the occupants just splashing water.
    Me with two little kids and then the worst tenants in the world.
    They were there 6 months before I evicted them. They put about 3 years wear and tear on the place.
    Brand new carpets looks years old.
    Anyway.
    The vanity is plywood with a finish grade ply on the outside.
    I'm gonna buy that clear poly and put two thin coats on.
    What should I thin that with?

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Most polyurethane wood finishes are designed to be used straight out of the can...so, unless you may be spraying it rather than painting it on, you do not want to actually thin it. Any suitable thinner would be listed on the container, and isn't necessarily a universal answer.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    So I bought the minwax stuff above, but I bought the wipe on version.

    I know my limits and I won't be able to get the brush on to look good not in the time I have.

    Next to it was the same product in a wipe on form, so I'm going to do three or four coats of that. Steel wool and tack cloth a must.

    If the base blisters again I will tile around the base.

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    okay so I got the first coat on.three hours wait.p I'm now going to steel wool the whole thing vacuum then tack cloth and rub on another coat

  9. #9
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Personally, I find that steel wool is best kept to after the last coat, if at all (I'll use it when I want a matt finish, but will use sandpaper - maybe wet/dry 400 grit stuff before it to get rid of slubs). Some fine grit sandpaper will flatten the dust nubs in the finish better, rather than rounding them over, and if you ever had a sliver of the steel wool left, it will rust underneath the next layer of finish.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    This wipe on poly has not bubbles whatsoever.
    I'm debating whether I should just leave it at two coats.
    I suppose three will be longer lasting if I do three. I can prep it, put the door on and wipe it down.
    then in 24 hours it will be ready for the next tenant to scratch it up.

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