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Thread: Fleck 7000SXT - Sizing Confirmation Please

  1. #1
    DIY Member brianj's Avatar
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    Talking Fleck 7000SXT - Sizing Confirmation Please

    After doing my load calculations:
    • 300 gal/day
    • 2 full bath, one half bath (no dual head showers, or big tubs)
    • Flow through humidifier
    • Pex Manifold (3/4" main, 1/2" distribution)
    • Separated spigots (not softened)
    • City water: 10 grains hardness
    • SFR ~ 10-12 GPM MAX


    Gary's calc suggests:
    • Total Grain Capacity: 24000
    • Resin CF: 1.5
    • Putting me between 6-8lbs of salt (total) per regeneration ever 8-9 days.


    How's this:
    Fleck 7000SXT Electronic 1-1/4 Inch Meter On Demand Control Valve Water Softener 48000 Grain Capacity

    7000 bypass valve
    10x54 Vortech resin tank
    1.5 cubic feet of resin
    12 gpm service flow rate

    Selected options:
    Fleck Valve Connection: 1 Inch NPT PVC
    Bypass Valve: Bypass Included
    Tank Color Option: Almond
    Brine Tank Size: 15x17x36 Rect Brine Tank
    Res-Up Feeder: No Res-Up Feeder
    Softening Resin (1.5 cuft): NSF Approved High Capacity Cation 10% Crosslink Softening Resin (Imported)
    Vortech tank: Vortech tank

    Ohio Pure Water actually recommended the 40,000 grain model, but that's only 1.25 cf of resin. The 48000 wasn't much more, and puts it in line with Gary's recommendation of 1.5 cf. Does this make sense? They did recommend the resin I have in there because of the chlorine in the city water. And the idea behind their Vortex tank sounded good. I don't mind spending a little extra to make out better in the long run. Any other suggestions? Is this one okay? Anything else to consider?

    Probably going to add a whole house filter too, in order to help with some of the sediment.

    Thanks for all you help.

    Brian

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    I've heard the vortex tank cause problems. I've seen 1 in 23 yrs and had to replace it so I would recommend you stay away from it. Get a standard tank with underbedding. Other than that it looks good.

  3. #3
    DIY Member brianj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mialynette2003 View Post
    I've heard the vortex tank cause problems. I've seen 1 in 23 yrs and had to replace it so I would recommend you stay away from it. Get a standard tank with underbedding. Other than that it looks good.
    Thanks. After doing some more looking into the Vortex it seems like they're a good idea but an expensive repair if something ever breaks.

    Any other suggestions?

    Is http://www.ohiopurewater.com a good place to go or are there vendors shooorting this site?

  4. #4
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I am not a fan of the Vortech design, too many failures recently on their 12" plates. The problem seems to be isolated to the 12" tank, but regardless, the plate design needs to hold beck the media for 10-30 years, the plate looks like it could be an obvious failure point over time. A high quality bottom screen.

    I am not much of a fan of buying from companies that do not bother to have a physical business address, just my personal preference. There are many companies that may cost a few dollars more, but they have inventory, build their own equipment, and can actually take returns at their own facility should a problem arise.

    The 1.5 Cu. Foot 7000 is perfect for your application, it is available with 3/4" MIP plumbing connectors, be sure to order those to make the installation much easier.

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianj View Post
    Thanks. After doing some more looking into the Vortex it seems like they're a good idea but an expensive repair if something ever breaks.

    Any other suggestions?

    Is http://www.ohiopurewater.com a good place to go or are there vendors shooorting this site?
    I don't recommend online dealers simply because I don't deal with them so I don't know their business practice's. Would you recommend a doctor to your friend that you have never used?

  6. #6
    DIY Member brianj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mialynette2003 View Post
    I don't recommend online dealers simply because I don't deal with them so I don't know their business practice's. Would you recommend a doctor to your friend that you have never used?
    My auto-correct didn't do something right. I didn't know if there were any vendors that supported/participated in this site. I don't care for either of the two local companies offering them here, and I've yet to be called back by any others I've tried. I'm not afraid of the online part, I've done it for years.

    I did get an email from the water department lab manager:

    The water at this time is approximately 100mg/l (5.8gpg). We don't routinely break the hardness down to its components, but the vast majority of the hardness components are calcium and magnesium in a ratio of 3:1 (Ca to Mg). The hardness of the City water varies and is highly dependent on rainfall and lack of it. It ranges from as low as 50mg/l (2.9gpg) in very wet periods to highs of slightly over 200mg/l (11.6gpg) during very dry seasons.
    That said, any changes to the softener size I should consider?

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Lol. I buy online as well. What I meant is that unless I have had direct dealings with any company, I don't recommend them. I would set the unit for 14 GPG. This is compensated hardness setting. You always set the unit for the highest hardness reading.

  8. #8
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Brianj, the best choice is a regular mineral tank, regular distributor tube and a gravel underbed. And as you see, there are those here that IMO are only here to do their damnedest to stop online sales. One is a distributor in CA and another is a local dealer in central FL.

    I don't refer anyone to any online dealers because I don't agree with their refusal to correctly size and/or give their customers correct programming information but, other than those things, most if not all online dealers will communicate with the person before the purchase, they have very competitive prices that local dealers will not/can not meet and they ship in a timely manner. I hear many will not spend much time dealing with problems after the sale and if they do they aren't very good troubleshooters. Most of the negatives also apply to local dealers and there are many more of them than there are online dealers. All online dealers have a return policy and in my opinion, due to them being online where a bad rep is easy to get, they aren't into price gouging as many local dealers are. Nor are they attempting to put local dealers out of business.

    Rather than a 7000, I suggest a 5600 SXT. It is much easier for a DIYer to troubleshoot and repair than other Fleck valves and requires no special Fleck tools. It has a size limit of no larger than a 2.0 cuft softener.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #9
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    I like to price gouge. Been doing it for over forty years now. Gouge, gouge, gouge LOL

    How do you stay in business if you price gouge your customers? Word gets around pretty fast. Unless you set up shop for a few months and move on maybe but you can't run and grow a business by doing shady business practices. Not that there aren't those that try, but they never last long.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I bet you also feel a license is necessary, and insurance too.

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