"Sub-slab depressurization" vents designed for radon remediation will dry out basements when groundwater is the primary moisture source, but summertime outdoor air in Indiana will always be adding, never subtracting from the moisture burden. It usually requires a 50-150watt blower to get there, so it's not exactly going to save you on the power use end.
If you're air-conditioning the first floor, actively exchanging the basement air with conditioned space air allows the AC to purge basement moisture without adding to the sensible (temperature only) cooling load the way a dehumidifier does.
If you have ground moisture wicking through the slab and walls using masonry sealers will slow it down considerably, reducing the load on the dehumidifier. But in most basements (even windowless basements) air leakage at the foundation sill is still a large (often the largest) source of basement humidity. If the basement needs the dehumidifier even in winter ground moisture is likely to be a big chunk of it, but if it's primarily a summertime problem, it's air leakage.
If your basement has no wall insulation and only fiberglass or nothing on the foundation sill & band joist, it's worth treating that. Even a flash-inch of closed cell spray foam over the band joist & foundation sill sealing it to the foundation is a good enough air seal, but it's worth adding some real R-value there too. you can't just put up a studwall and stuff batts in it or you'll have mold issues due to both ground moisture trapping and wintertime condensation/frost. The cheapest way to get there is with an inch of rigid EPS (white bead-board) foam trapped to the foundation by a non-structural studwall that's insulated with UN-faced batts (either rock wool or unfaced R13 fiberglass "sound deading" type batts.) To keep the bottom plate both warm & dry you need to put an inch of foam between it and the slab too. You then need to spray-foam seal the band joist & foundation sill to the top of your wall foam.
An inch of EPS with all seams foam-sealed is sufficiently air tight to keep air-transported moisture from creating problems and is vapor open enough that the foundation can dry toward the interior, albeit slowly. At ~R4 is has sufficient R value to keep wintertime condensation in check for your climate, and the batts/studs won't take on wintertime moisture from the interior, they stay warm enough to stay dry.
Alternatively you could put 2-3" of foam against the foundation held in place by furring through-screwed the foundation with TapCon's 24" o.c. on which to hang the half-inch gypsum (required by code as an ignition barrier for the foam.)
Either way you do it, insulating & air sealing the basement will make the basement both warmer & drier, year-round, and will reduce the duty-cycle on your dehumidifier.