Tileman4
In the Trades
Hi guys
i posted this before but was so unsure of correct terms and unable to see or relay the whole picture that when i tried to show others they had no idea what i was talking about , well ive obessed on this so long and been reading for hours & hours codes & proper setups that i feel i can see and show u guys what im dealing with & if you could give me any critiqe or even a " go read about........" i would be so greatful
here we go,
pic 1
i wanted to try and remove as much of the plumbing in this room after finding all the electrical so rusted & corroded from the near by salt water (house backs up 10 feet from the ocean, the garage is the front & where vapor membrane started for house )
that they were crumbling , i assumed the cast iron would be too, & if repipe of line was ever done (trenchless , epoxy lining, ect) i know at change of direction they would have to dig there, i wanted that room to be left alone and worked around "planning ahead"
also i read for hours just about fixture values and found myself over with added laundry sink & tub to shower conversion, so i wanted to tie into toilet so i could run 3" back to vertical stack @ laundry/bath , as i got farther back i got nervous about cutting into the toilet/change direction joint & worried it might be domino and end up causing a huge problem so i stoped about 8-12" from it( i know complete waste of time )
cleaned up old cast for abs connect and wraped it with pipe tape & foam for compression of sand & water
heres where it gets tricky.....
the original setup was a rolled wye up to tee for tub in footing, but was too small 1 1/2" & was too high, behind wye 2 sets of 22.5 to make extra long sweep up through footing for bath sink, right at concrete on back side in garage was i belive a cleanout that was later used as drain for new washer with vent from shower feeding it
tried to copy old but move shower lower ,fail
so after reading a lot about trap siphon ect from washer, I wanted to try and keep shower on separate branch.the drawing of washer & laundry sink is the correct one i switched from double fixture as i read alot about stack vs double outlet. wall will have extended stemwall and framed to 2x8 also havethese pipe plates to enforce areas drilled for plumbing
Roughed in waiste and vent, flood tested with garden hose no leaks.
Back filled, hooked up washer, fail.
Suds from washer rising up shower vent line, I am worried about water comming back up through shower, with low or no curb. Slight gurgiling too.
as it stands all pipe waste & vent @ 2"
long sweeps at all change direct, seperate vent with no vert to horizontal change till roof line( only 45 offsets) where they will tie in at the 1 1/2" stub to roof
i belive that the last section of 2" cast is closed up from age and wear & the newer line might be jetting water down so quickly that its bottle necking
Questions
1) Can I tie in shower trap arm into base of vertical stack, just above long sweep with san Tee vertical, then put combie on back or san tee between trap arm and stack for strickly vent vertical?
2) Would keeping everything on the same stack prevent back flow of suds? Due to high rate of discharge from washer, forcing everything down stream on same line or would suds come back through san tee waste line & up san tee vent line?
3) Do I need to open up to three inch for horizontal, thus completing my original goal of isolating bathroom group for future sewer line work? I will be putting acess panels, washer side at copper stub outs for plumber to repipe supply with out damage to slab and waterproofing, fyi toilet has own 2" vent
4) read about backflow device and trap primers but no sure if that is the right direction, also since its end of line do i need a loop vent behind last fixture?
Thank you so much for your help, patience and guildence. i am trying to not take short cuts and do things the right way & am willing to put in the work
Best Regards,
Terry B
i posted this before but was so unsure of correct terms and unable to see or relay the whole picture that when i tried to show others they had no idea what i was talking about , well ive obessed on this so long and been reading for hours & hours codes & proper setups that i feel i can see and show u guys what im dealing with & if you could give me any critiqe or even a " go read about........" i would be so greatful
here we go,
pic 1
i wanted to try and remove as much of the plumbing in this room after finding all the electrical so rusted & corroded from the near by salt water (house backs up 10 feet from the ocean, the garage is the front & where vapor membrane started for house )
that they were crumbling , i assumed the cast iron would be too, & if repipe of line was ever done (trenchless , epoxy lining, ect) i know at change of direction they would have to dig there, i wanted that room to be left alone and worked around "planning ahead"
also i read for hours just about fixture values and found myself over with added laundry sink & tub to shower conversion, so i wanted to tie into toilet so i could run 3" back to vertical stack @ laundry/bath , as i got farther back i got nervous about cutting into the toilet/change direction joint & worried it might be domino and end up causing a huge problem so i stoped about 8-12" from it( i know complete waste of time )
cleaned up old cast for abs connect and wraped it with pipe tape & foam for compression of sand & water
heres where it gets tricky.....
the original setup was a rolled wye up to tee for tub in footing, but was too small 1 1/2" & was too high, behind wye 2 sets of 22.5 to make extra long sweep up through footing for bath sink, right at concrete on back side in garage was i belive a cleanout that was later used as drain for new washer with vent from shower feeding it
tried to copy old but move shower lower ,fail
so after reading a lot about trap siphon ect from washer, I wanted to try and keep shower on separate branch.the drawing of washer & laundry sink is the correct one i switched from double fixture as i read alot about stack vs double outlet. wall will have extended stemwall and framed to 2x8 also havethese pipe plates to enforce areas drilled for plumbing
Roughed in waiste and vent, flood tested with garden hose no leaks.
Back filled, hooked up washer, fail.
Suds from washer rising up shower vent line, I am worried about water comming back up through shower, with low or no curb. Slight gurgiling too.
as it stands all pipe waste & vent @ 2"
long sweeps at all change direct, seperate vent with no vert to horizontal change till roof line( only 45 offsets) where they will tie in at the 1 1/2" stub to roof
i belive that the last section of 2" cast is closed up from age and wear & the newer line might be jetting water down so quickly that its bottle necking
Questions
1) Can I tie in shower trap arm into base of vertical stack, just above long sweep with san Tee vertical, then put combie on back or san tee between trap arm and stack for strickly vent vertical?
2) Would keeping everything on the same stack prevent back flow of suds? Due to high rate of discharge from washer, forcing everything down stream on same line or would suds come back through san tee waste line & up san tee vent line?
3) Do I need to open up to three inch for horizontal, thus completing my original goal of isolating bathroom group for future sewer line work? I will be putting acess panels, washer side at copper stub outs for plumber to repipe supply with out damage to slab and waterproofing, fyi toilet has own 2" vent
4) read about backflow device and trap primers but no sure if that is the right direction, also since its end of line do i need a loop vent behind last fixture?
Thank you so much for your help, patience and guildence. i am trying to not take short cuts and do things the right way & am willing to put in the work
Best Regards,
Terry B
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