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Thread: american standard mixing valve need skematic

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member tommy h's Avatar
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    Default american standard mixing valve need skematic

    well i got the right screw driver to open up the valve today and i know what part i need A/SR12936.09 "R1400 RENU RP OVERHAUL" 442005 does anybody know where i can get a blow up drawing of this valve, so when i re build i have a solid reference ,also here is my previous post on this matter
    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...r-mixing-valve
    thank you
    tommy h
    also,and i hope this isint a dumb question, i can rebuild this unit from just the opening in the front ,....right ?
    Last edited by tommy h; 01-16-2013 at 12:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Good luck on documents. American Standard probably hasn't supported that valve since 1960. You need to find a VERY old plumber, or plumbing supply, who NEVER threw out their old books! Suppliers like the one referenced that still actually stock parts MAY have a document. Start with them.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member tommy h's Avatar
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    i'm going to albano's plumbing in corona queens ny tomorrow, i called them and they said they have the rebuild kit,my next question was ;"does it come with instructions ? he said he thinks it does but wasn't sure, we shall see tomorrow, i will update tomorrow, and thank you jim for your response

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Just put the new parts in EXACTLY like the old ones came out. I do not know what parts that repair kit will have, but the main thing to remember is to put the "barrels" on the proper sides, otherwise your hot and cold will be reversed.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member tommy h's Avatar
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    thanks hj, I actually video taped taking the unit out, i bought the repair kit,which consisted of only washers pertaining to this unit.There is a kit for $86.00 that has all the metal parts,but i just got the washer kit for 25.00( as advised by the parts guy). I cleaned all valve componants up, put the washers in, also there is a set screw that I adjusted,put the barrels in ,and now it works fine. I really dont understand how this valve works,the washers I replaced did not seem that bad,it seems like readjusting the screw is what did it, but i'm not 100% sure. (which bugs me) but i'm glad it worked out .
    thanx again
    tommy h

  6. #6
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    IT is simple. The rubber washers stop the flow, but as soon as you turn the handle the barrels begin to slide out. Because of the way the grooves are arranged, the cold slots open first, then begin to "diminish", while the hot ones open slowly and gradually get larger. This action mixes the water giving temperatures from all cold thru various degrees of warm to all hot, depending on the handles location. The "screw" just limits how far the handle can pull the hot barrel out, thus limiting the maximum temperature possible.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Norm_1's Avatar
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    Hello!

    I had the same unit and it was constantly leaking, so I managed to fix the leak by getting a repair kit.

    Now as luck would have it, I introduced a new problem because I am not getting anything hotter than lukewarm.

    I thought perhaps it was the "set screw" but I removed that altogether. I know the plungers are in the right place because they seem to only fit in their designated slots.

    Anyone know what the problem could be?

    Thanks in advance!

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