(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Final FINAL installation pictures of cross, control valve, pressure tank, and pump!

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Schimko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    26

    Default Final FINAL installation pictures of cross, control valve, pressure tank, and pump!

    Well a couple weeks ago I put my pictures up here of my installation. Well since that time we decided to get a water regulator to regulate the amount of pressure going down my casing. Last week we installed that and started to prime only to notice that my cast iron box elbow in the basement was leaking. Upon further inspection it had froze and cracked... I looked high and low on the internet for one but couldn't even find a picture of one! So my buddy made one. Got some galvanized 2" coupler fittings and welded them into a big piece of pipe. I then JB Kwikwelded his welds and sprayed they whole thing with bed liner. Primed everything last night and we have water in the house. When the pump turns on the casing gets down to about 20psi. When the pump shuts off the casing is at 32 psi. For some reason when the pump shuts off at 32 psi it peaks at 40psi and stays there. I don't know why and I don't really care as long as it is working. Pressure seems decent in the house, no worse then it was anyway. Dont know how much psi we have at the pump as I only have 1 gauge and that is in my casing. Suppose a guy should check that out here. Here are some pics.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/2561115...n/photostream/

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/2561115...n/photostream/

    Here is the old thread with the pics prior to the installation of the water regulator

    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...sure-tank-pump

    Let me know what you guys think.

  2. #2
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE FL, SE GA
    Posts
    319

    Default

    looks ok other than the regulator on the drive line. not sure what thats about. the pic in the first thread looked better. use a tire gauge on your tank and you'll know the pressure on the pump.
    Last edited by justwater; 12-05-2012 at 08:48 PM.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Schimko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Before you edited your post you said it looked "bass-akwards" The ONLY difference is the water regulator, nothing else changed. When we had 50-55 psi going down the casing it only worked for 1 day before pump couldn't build pressure and the water ran out of the pipe in 8 hours. Pulled pipe, replaced leathers, and in order to not have this happen again (hopefully) we put a regulator in. According to my Goulds book there should be 32 psi going down that casing. People on here said that whatever you get you get (for psi) but clearly that "whatever" didn't work for me the first time. And when something don't work something has to change. That something is the regulator. Pressure is good enough in the house, pump only runs for about 30 seconds before shutting off and the leathers are holding.

  4. #4
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE FL, SE GA
    Posts
    319

    Default

    when you have a regulator in front of a pump... it does look backwards. but ur right, only change is the regulator... so i edited. i forgot you had the 2.5" casing, so the regular idea is to try and keep the leathers from flipping? you do know that you can adjust the amount of backpressure with that regulator on top of the pump right? did you ever check the tank when pump shuts off to see what your psi is?

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member Schimko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Well the water regulator is used to try and maintain a lower pressure going down the casing then we had before. So yea I guess the ultimate goal is to not flip the leathers or distort them in any way. I thought I could regulate back pressure with that regulator on top but wasn't sure. I will check my tank pressure on my lunch break today.

  6. #6
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,676

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Schimko View Post
    ...pump only runs for about 30 seconds before shutting off and the leathers are holding.
    Short cycling is not good.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Schimko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    26

    Default

    I wouldn't call it a short cycle. It takes about 32 seconds for it to get back up to pressure then it shuts off. It stays off until the pressure gets low enough. I would call it normal water usage. Is the pump suppose to run non stop while using the shower for instance?

  8. #8
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,676

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Schimko View Post
    I wouldn't call it a short cycle.
    You can call it whatever you want. I was the one that called it a short cycle. Anything less than 60 seconds is generally considered to be too short.

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member Schimko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Ok so call it that. So youre saying I should change my pressure switch so my pump runs longer.

    Justwater: My tank pressure is whatever my casing pressure is at. So when my pump shuts off at 40 that's what the tank is at...

  10. #10
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE FL, SE GA
    Posts
    319

    Default

    oh ok. I guess i was thinking the regulator could affect it, but that makes sense. face gauges are just one of my quirks.. i never go by one when a tire gauge is an option. always made more sense to adjust the pressure switch with the same gauge i use to adjust the tank's precharge. at any rate, glad u got water.
    Last edited by justwater; 12-06-2012 at 12:07 PM.

  11. #11
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,676

    Default

    If you change the cut-off pressure so that it runs longer, you risk blowing the leathers off if your regulator lets the full tank pressure go to the packer. If you already have the ideal precharge to get the max drawdown from the tank, you would need a bigger tank to reduce cycling.

Similar Threads

  1. How do I hook up a Goulds 3/4 hp deep well jet pump with cross and control valve?
    By Schimko in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 03-04-2013, 02:41 PM
  2. Final (Hopefully) installation pictures of cross, control valve, pressure tank, pump
    By Schimko in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 11-20-2012, 11:32 AM
  3. final drawing for plumbing
    By snottyvar in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-01-2012, 04:50 PM
  4. Final adjustment of CSV Valve
    By royerm in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-16-2011, 08:58 AM
  5. Time for final decision
    By danshe in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-11-2009, 09:54 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •