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Thread: Rough in shower install leaks

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Rigger33's Avatar
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    Default Rough in shower install leaks

    Here is what I've installed.
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    Here is what leaks. It's Blue Monster Pipe Thread Sealant.
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    Only the hot water "in" leaks. but I'm assuming this is not how it's done. I should have probably soldered the fittings after tightening them the best I could?
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    If soldering this close to the plastic workings inside do I remove them like I did for the mixing valve?

    Any help/scrutiny/criticism is welcome and much appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Mike

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    I don't suggest trying to solder that threaded connection.

    There is no easy fix for this.

    You need to properly clean and flux any future soldering you do here, and you need to remove the water from the lines.

    Cut it or sweat something loose and get the male adapter tighter.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Rigger33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlarrivee View Post
    I don't suggest trying to solder that threaded connection.

    There is no easy fix for this.

    You need to properly clean and flux any future soldering you do here, and you need to remove the water from the lines.

    Cut it or sweat something loose and get the male adapter tighter.
    Thanks! Didn't think it would be an easy fix. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't some trade secret that may have made this alittle more reassuring. After reading some similar incidents here I think I'll try the "overkill method" with tape then thread sealant.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    I've always done the tape and dope method on water feeds.
    What always is the issue for me is heating the cup just long enough to get solder to wick in without heating it too long to affect the dope in the threaded end just like yours. I turn on the water and pray there are no leaks when you're working in a tight spot like that where do over is a 23@@!#$$

  5. #5
    DIY Member tom12's Avatar
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    As mentioned above, cut/free the cu supplies, and wind-out, clean and remake the adapters - all of them. Wrap tape twice around the threads and then dope them.
    Thread them back in. Before cutting the cu. tubes, clean the area of the cut, it will make it easier when you sweat connectors to re-assemble the rig.

    Never sweat one end of a made/in-situ IPS fitting. Solder on a short stub of cu. before threading an adapter into a body. The stub can be cut to the required length. Always remove the works from a to be soldered valve. Any valve.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    But in the clearances of the OP valve and , there's not alot of room to solder and the thread the onto the body

  7. #7
    DIY Member tom12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    But in the clearances of the OP valve and , there's not alot of room to solder and the thread the onto the body

    If there's not enough room to spin the adapters out then cut twice, on the straight pipe beyond the 90 and between the 90 and the adapter. Wether the OP uses new material or pulls apart and re-assembles the existing mats. is up to him. AAMOI: i should re-make all five adapters - do it now, not when it later possibly leaks in the wall. I speak as a veteran of quick fixes.

    Another method would be to cover the adapter and valve tapping with a frozen, damp cloth,and sweat the 90 away from the adapter ( wear gloves ) then remake the join as above.. Using this method i should pre-remove all vulnerable works from the valve.

    AAMOI: I shouldn't attempt to sweat the adapter into the valve body, because if it doesn't take then you'll have quite a job merely getting the adapter back out - leave that technique to plumbers.

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