Bronsonb
New Member
Hi All-
We're in the midst of updating our bathroom and replacing all fixtures. We have a new jetted tub on the way to replace the old cast iron behemoth that is currently sitting in pieces next to my garage awaiting a trip to the recycling center. New tub is the same size as the old tub (although I know the drains will not likely match up and have already started replacing the Ptrap).
I am weighing the pros and cons of using solvent a welded tub drain versus a slip joint model. The tub I am getting is a Jacuzzi Primo from the blue box. It is skirted but has an access panel across the front allowing access to the tub's motor and also to the front where the drain is located. Until I get the tub to the house, I won't know how much access I have though.
My concern with a slip joint drain is that if I don't get the joints lined up and tight I might get a slow leak that I don't discover for several weeks or months until it's stained the family room ceiling below. Also, it seems that a solvent welded drain would hold together better, but am I wrong?
If I go the solvent weld route, I am curious as how to best get everything together with access from the side and maybe access behind if I cut a hole in the closet that backs up to the tub. However, there's a vent line and a cold water line partly in the way from that vantage point behind the drain.
I'm going to be replacing the Ptrap in the joist bay below, so I can get the new Ptrap to line up perfectly with the drain from the tub, so that shouldn't be a problem. But there's still the question of how to hook up all of those pieces so that nothing leaks and everything flows and drains properly.
It seems the advantage of the slip joint is that it's more forgiving and I can take multiple tries. I read the tip about coating the threads with plumber's putty before assembling to help them seal (did I get that right?).
With the solvent weld, there's only one shot after repeated measuring to get it right before you have to but a new set of pipe, but it seems like it would be more stable.
What would you do? I guess there's option #3 --> help the local economy and pay my plumber to hook it up. I take it that this is a fairly straightforward job for a pro who has likely done this dozens of times and can do it in his (or her) sleep?
Thanks, in advance, for the advice.
We're in the midst of updating our bathroom and replacing all fixtures. We have a new jetted tub on the way to replace the old cast iron behemoth that is currently sitting in pieces next to my garage awaiting a trip to the recycling center. New tub is the same size as the old tub (although I know the drains will not likely match up and have already started replacing the Ptrap).
I am weighing the pros and cons of using solvent a welded tub drain versus a slip joint model. The tub I am getting is a Jacuzzi Primo from the blue box. It is skirted but has an access panel across the front allowing access to the tub's motor and also to the front where the drain is located. Until I get the tub to the house, I won't know how much access I have though.
My concern with a slip joint drain is that if I don't get the joints lined up and tight I might get a slow leak that I don't discover for several weeks or months until it's stained the family room ceiling below. Also, it seems that a solvent welded drain would hold together better, but am I wrong?
If I go the solvent weld route, I am curious as how to best get everything together with access from the side and maybe access behind if I cut a hole in the closet that backs up to the tub. However, there's a vent line and a cold water line partly in the way from that vantage point behind the drain.
I'm going to be replacing the Ptrap in the joist bay below, so I can get the new Ptrap to line up perfectly with the drain from the tub, so that shouldn't be a problem. But there's still the question of how to hook up all of those pieces so that nothing leaks and everything flows and drains properly.
It seems the advantage of the slip joint is that it's more forgiving and I can take multiple tries. I read the tip about coating the threads with plumber's putty before assembling to help them seal (did I get that right?).
With the solvent weld, there's only one shot after repeated measuring to get it right before you have to but a new set of pipe, but it seems like it would be more stable.
What would you do? I guess there's option #3 --> help the local economy and pay my plumber to hook it up. I take it that this is a fairly straightforward job for a pro who has likely done this dozens of times and can do it in his (or her) sleep?
Thanks, in advance, for the advice.