CW & laundry sink connection

Trickydick · Dec 17, 2011

I need to connect a laundry sink and standpipe to my main. The connection will be a 2" line to a 4x2x4 wye which is at the end of the main; the main stack enters this horizontal line about 1ft. from the end of this wye. I am thinking that if could dump the washer directly into the laundry sink (the 1 1/2"drain which is about 6ft. from the wye) and then run a 2" line and trap to the connection, I'd be all set. My problem is that I don't want the washer by the sink due to space limitations. My thought was to connect a 2" standpipe and trap to the wye and then run a untrapped 1 1/2" line from the sink to a santee on the standpipe. My rational is two-fold: 1)the main would act as the wet vent; 2)if I could dump directly into the sink, why not the reverse and dump the sink into the standpipe. the Is this real bad thinking on my part or is there a better way? IN my area we use the IRC & IPC. Probably should mention that the laundry sink has been draining into a drywell that is now failing; we are now on town sewer. I am a new poster so if a drawing is needed, I'll have to find a way to do that before I can respond. I'm very novice at posting; I would very much appreciate some help at how to attach a sketch or email photo. Thanks in advance for any help

MTcummins · Dec 17, 2011

I at least would need a drawing to fully understand what you're talking about.

For starters though, you can't use 1.5" for any drain lines for laundry, they need to be 2". You can vent with 1.5, but not drain.

As for the rest, post some kind of pictures please.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Jimbo · Dec 18, 2011

Nothing can share a line with the washing machine standpipe; but the WM can drain into the sink,of course.
You can use a 1 1/2" trap arm on a washtub sink but 6' is too long for the trap arm.

hj · Dec 18, 2011

Your description makes sense to you, but not us. You CANNOT use a main drain as a vent, to start with.

Helpful Plumbing Hints for Residential Construction by Bert Polk Plumbing Inspector Lincoln County

Trickydick · Jan 15, 2012

These pics should help explain what I'm trying to do. This second pic is the iron pipe 1 1/2" drain from the laundry tub that goes to a old drywell that is actually under the basement floor; it no longer works. The vertical line is the vent tha t goes about 5 ft. up,then turns horizontal for 42 in., and thengoes vertical again and meets with the kitchen vent before running up and out of the roof.The laundry tub has 1 1/2 in. brass pipe and fittings.

The first pic is the end of the main drain with the 4x4x2 wye. Id like to run my 2 in. line from there to a 2 in. wye or combination wye. I would then connect the 2 in, standlpipe, trap, and trap arm to the wye. I would then continuewith another 2 in. line from the other end of the wye to a 2 in. coupling, 1 1/2 in. bushing; the 1 1/2 in. trap arm from the tub would then go to the bushing.

Since the IPC allows it, I would use AVVs for th 1 1/2 and 2 in. traps.

Cacher_Chick · Jan 16, 2012

It might help if you make a drawing of what you intend to do, showing what fittings you plan to use and where.

From what I have read, it sounds like you are planning to run both fixtures into a single 2" line, which is not permitted.

I also suspect that what you referred to as the "vent" is actually the drain for the kitchen sink, so it could never be used as a proper vent unless the connection was made above the kitchen sink.

You might be able to use an AAV there, but without seeing exactly how they will be installed, we could not say if it is right or wrong.

Trickydick · Jan 16, 2012

Ok.I'll find a way to draw that and repost. The vertical line is only a vent for the old drywell and the kitchen sink; I dont believe it connects above the kitchen sink , because there is a window preventing it from going vert. until it runs horizontal for about 18 in.; the kitchen sink draincomes down into the basement and connects to the 4 in. cast iron vert. main. If I can't make both connections to the 2 in.pipe, should I remove the 4 in. clean-out and extend it to accommodate two separate connections for the 1 1/2 and 2 in?

Trickydick · Jan 22, 2012

I've included (3) drawings: one is a general view of what I want to do; I zoomed-in for the other's to show a little more detail of each half. I've included an inset of the LT santee vent because I wasn't certain of the correct orientation to flow. I'll also need some help withe the LT connections because as you can see from the elevations, there's not a lot of height from the deep-sink strainer elev. to maintain a 1/4 in./ft.pitch up to the 4in. pipe . I've seen a couple different styles with varying elbow bends, but not sure which one to use

Trickydick · Jan 23, 2012

Forgot to mention on my post last night that all the "red" represents what was original, and the "green" is what I need to change. I'm also now thinking that at the end of the 4in. line where the 1 1/2in from the LT connects that a 4 to 1 1/2 reducer would work just as well as the wye plus it would save the cost of another 4in. wye

Cacher_Chick · Jan 23, 2012

I strained my eyes and didn't see anything too bad.

You can use a 1-1/2" trap on a laundry tray, but the drain line should be 2".

What is so special about your house that a real vent cannot be run up through the roof?

Trickydick · Jan 23, 2012

Ok. I can easily put on a 4 to 2 reducer and use a 1 1/2 x 2 x 1 1/2 santee at the vent. Any thoughts on what type of pipe and fittings to use at the tub?I need something with a tight radius, especially a the deep sink. As per my original photos, there is a 1 1/2in vent near the tub that connects at the kitchen sink ventupstairs.I could connect to that for the tub, but for the 2in. the vent would have to run 8ft. before connecting to the vertical leg of that vent; I'll post another photo to show the vent; it's the one to the right as it goes up through the floor.The another alternative would be to open- up one of the kitchen walls and run a new line up through the roof; that would have to wait until warmer weather. The only thing else I could possibly do would be to connect to the bathtub vent but a interior kitchen wall would have to be opened-up and cabinets removed.

Cacher_Chick · Jan 24, 2012

You will need a 1-1/2 continuous waste with end outlet on the sink. If your connection is too low you will not be able to maintain pitch to the drain.

In a single story home, one can take careful measurements and send a stick of 2" PVC through an interior wall from the basement to the attic without opening up any walls. Once in the attic, you have the choice of going through the roof or connecting to an existing vent which is already through. If working up from the basement you will want to do this while the the floor is opened up, because you will need the extra clearance to get the pipe started up the hole.

Trickydick · Jan 25, 2012

Ok. Thanks. I'll connect the tub to the 1 1/2in IP vent. I could run the vent for the 2in. up the wall cavity where the 4in. main and 1 1/2in. BT vent run up to the attic; the 1 1/2 then connects to the 4in before going out the roof. I have three questions: 1) isn't 1 1/2in adequate for venting a 2in. standpipe? 2) what's the max distance 1 1/2in. vent can run horizontal before going vertical again?3) since the IRC & IPC allow it, why can't I use AAV's for the 1 1/2in.venting?
I've also included drawings of two double sink drains , because I wasn't sure what you meant by continuous waste with end outlet. The upper one with the tighter radius on the end would give me the height to allow for the proper pitch

Hammerlane · Jan 26, 2012

trickydick said:
Ok. what's the max distance 1 1/2in. vent can run horizontal before going vertical again?3) View attachment 15300

60 feet .

Trickydick · Jan 26, 2012

Ok. Thanks Hammerlane. I can certainly fall into that 20ft. limit; I could then connect the 1 1/2in. vents from the LT & CW, run a horizontal line to the wall cavity up to the attic, and connect to the 1 1/2in. vent from the BT that's on the 4in.main. I would still like some clarification on the AAV use

Trickydick · Jan 27, 2012

cacher_chick said:
I strained my eyes and didn't see anything too bad.

You can use a 1-1/2" trap on a laundry tray, but the drain line should be 2".

What is so special about your house that a real vent cannot be run up through the roof?

I trust the 2in would start at the trap outlet. also you earlier mentioned to run the pipe up through the wall cavity while the floor was open; how much of the floor do I need to open? I was planning on running 7ft. lengths w/couplings and glue as I g

h and thanks for the help with the double sinktrap-I found just what you said and it will work fine. could still use some clarification on the AAV use

Trickydick · Jan 28, 2012

Bump. Would sure appreciate some clarification on the use of AAV's; I was planning on doing this job over the weekend. also is it better to use a cleaner and/or primer on connections? Thanks cacher_chick for the advice on the LT trap; I found just what you mentioned and it will work just fine

Cwhyu2 · Jan 28, 2012

Cleaner/primer are required for any solvent weld joint.be it PVC or ABS.

Cacher_Chick · Jan 28, 2012

If I were going to use AAV's, I would just run the vent up close to the ceiling and top it with an AAV at each fixture.

The AAV's must be left exposed, as they should be checked regularly for any sign of sewer gas coming back into the room.

I use whatever purple primer and PVC cement that the supplier has in the size I need.
It's better to get small cans of cement over large ones, as the cement does go bad in the can once it has been opened.

Hackney plumbing · Jan 28, 2012

cacher_chick said:
If I were going to use AAV's, I would just run the vent up close to the ceiling and top it with an AAV at each fixture.

The AAV's must be left exposed, as they should be checked regularly for any sign of sewer gas coming back into the room.

I use whatever purple primer and PVC cement that the supplier has in the size I need.
It's better to get small cans of cement over large ones, as the cement does go bad in the can once it has been opened.

Going to the ceiling really isn't needed but I do like to get above the flood level rim. To help your pvc slovent keep longer,even before its opened......store it upside down. It helps.

CW & laundry sink connection

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