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Thread: Solder inside joint?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member jhammer's Avatar
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    Default Solder inside joint?

    Hello all,

    Long time lurker, but I registered because I have a question I can't find an answer to anywhere on the interwebs.

    I'm doing a double bathroom rehab. Upstairs, I've put in a shower, just finished tiling. I roughed in 1/2 copper supplies capped at the end of the stub-out. Well, that was a bad idea. THere are 4 body sprays and a handheld ell that require no more than 5/8" of male NPT thread from th efinished wall in order to mount flush with the wall. THe fitting is 1 1/8" long, meaning I have to recess it 1/2" past the surface of the tile. Not a big problem except getting the solder to the back of the fitting.

    My question: is it possible to apply the solder inside the fitting, where the pipe hits the stop of the fitting? I did a test run on a scrap piece of pipe and took the fitting apart to check the sweat, and there was complete solder coverage. I know I run the risk of solder build-up inside the fitting, but they're horizontal, so I figure I can minimize the excess and wipe out most of it.

    I know it's unorthodox, but has anyone ever done it?

    Thanks in advance.

    Jeff

  2. #2
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    Default

    I have done it but it's not a very good practice. I have also un-soldered joints from inside the pipe when the joint was in a wall.

    John

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Does this mean you stubbed copper out of the wall, rather than using a "drop ear elbow" and a brass nipple? It is not "unorthodox" because there are situations where that has to be done, and if done properly, it USUALLY produces a secure, leak proof joint. How are you going to cut the copper to the proper length, and clean the outside of the tubing?
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member jhammer's Avatar
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    John,
    Thanks, that's what I needed to hear.

    hj,
    Yes, that's how I stubbed out. A drop ear elbow would have been a smart idea.
    Figured I'd cut the copper with a hacksaw and clean it up with emery cloth (maybe using a flathead screwdriver to get past where the fitting will end.
    Thanks

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    If the thread has to project 5/8" from the wall, the copper may have to cut INSIDE the wall, depending on how the adapter is formed. Most have the copper socket above the thread, which takes up MORE than 5/8".
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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