Water pressure regulator problems

I posted a problem that I'm having with a water heater in a previous thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4242

Now, I'm pretty sure that it's a problem with the pressure regulator on the house.

I just hooked up a pressure guage to an outside faucet and I'm getting 140 psi. I'm assuming that this is way to high. I've heard 80 is normal. I took a picture of the regulator and that can be seen by clicking here: http://home.nc.rr.com/lukasavige/Img2005-11-07_0001.jpg

I've turned the nut on the valve both ways, but the pressure does not change from 140 psi.

I don't have any PEX tools. Is there and easy way to replace this? I have decent soldering skills as long as I can get the water out of the pipes. I'd also replace that shutoff valve with a 1/4 turn levered ball valve.

Thanks for the help.

Regulator Tests and Repairs

It looks like a pretty new regulator. I would not start with trying to replace it. If the bonnet can be removed they can often be repaired in place.

What are the make and model number of the regulator?

I can't see what is under the blue wrench but a regulator often has a lock nut and a setting bolt. The nut is in contact with the bonnet. The regulating bolt is what sticks out.

The usual way to adjust it is to loosen the NUT slightly, adjust the BOLT (counterclockwise usually reduces pressure), and then tighten the nut to hold the setting.

To check the pressure, you should connect the pressure gauge, then run the water on another faucet with low flow to see what you get for regulated pressure. If the pressure is properly regulated when the flow is 1 to 2 gallons per minute, but goes to 140 psi when you shut off the flow, then there is probably a leak at the seat of the regulator. You could adjust through the range of the regulator setting while there is low flow and see if you get a range of pressure.

If there is dirt or something on the regulator seat, you might try to wash it out with a big flow. Open a nearby outdoor faucet or two all the way, then increase the pressure setting all the way, which should open the valve to the maximum. Reset the pressure and see if it will hold.

It looks like a union on the lower end of the regulator, so you should not have to cut the PEX above it if you can figure a way to rotate it off the adapter at the top of the regulator.

Is there a chance that someone installed the regulator backwards? Is there an arrow cast into the regulator? I assume that inlet is at the bottom.

Zurn Model 70

I was able to determine from the picture that it is a Model 70 and found that it is a Zurn Model 70.

The instruction sheet and maintenance instructions are available at the Zurn site. Go down the page and find the Model 70.
http://www.zurn.com/pages/catalog.asp?ProductGroupID=86&OperationID=11

The regulator can be repaired in place. Tools an parts required are shown at a link provided at the site. Look down the list and the site and you will find your regulator.

Thanks for the help guys. It is installed the right way. I think it's just not working in the past few days. I notice the kitchen faucet really shooting the water out now. I guess all I have to do is find who sells the rebuild kit and fix it.

Justin

Well, thanks again for the help. I just went through everyone in the phone book looking for a Wilkins rebuild kit. The only place that has them available has to order them. The price with shipping will be about the same price as a new one.

I'm now trying to figure out how to replace it. I'm not sure if the whole house is PEX or not, but I don't have any tools. I think my choices are either PEX or sweat. It's a very wierd setup as you can see in the picture posted by the link above. I guess I'll get rid of the PEX (the bottom of the valve looks the same as the top) and throw in some 3/4" copper and sweat a new PRV as well as shutoff valve.

Anyone see any problems with that choice?

If the prices are the same, and you don't want to replace it, buy a new one, and use its' parts to fix the original one...

Can you fix it?

You might want to open up the valve and see if it is just dirt, or if you can just repalce a valve washer or some simple part. The kit probably contains a lot of things that aren't broken.

Advantage of the fix vs replacement is that you should be able to do it without removing the valve.

If you can't find the Zurn/Wilkins, you might be able to find a Watts regulator locally. Brand doesn't matter but the size does.

my 2 cents

the hose bib you tested the pressure at may be BEFORE the pressure regulator ! manytimes people want hi pressure to wash autos and for lawn sprinklers.

Also, 80 psi is too high. Should be between 30 and 60.

The hose bib is after the regulator because I can turn it off with the main valve. Can I rebuild that valve with parts from another manufacture?

Thanks again.

my 2 cents

there not that expensive! bite the bullet and get on with your life

valve

If you can find a new valve that is the same length, or close to it, then just unscrew the union on the bottom, unscrew the valve from the PEX on the top, then screw the new valve and union on and tighten the union.

I realize the valve isn't that expensive, but if it were easy to do, I'd replace it. The problem is that if I do that, I'll replace the shutoff valve as well. I don't have the $100 PEX too to do that. The copper elbows on top and bottom don't look like something made by PEX. I don't think I can sweat to them. So I'll probably spend the money and replace it all.

I just replaced the expansion tank, but the hot water is still running pretty dirty. I've flushed the water heater a few times and tried to clean it the best I can. Filling up a white bowl, I can see all the dirt swimming around in there. Is my water heater corroding on the inside as well? Should I replace it? Other folks in my neighborhood have had to replace theirs already due to corrosion.

dirt

Before you replace the w. h. , take the mag.rod out and flush out the tank.
You may find that whe water will clear up.

It is unlikely that you could rebuild one brands pressure reduction valve with those of another's.

Thanks. I've got a new pressure regulator in as well as a new expansion tank and that solves all the problems. I picked up a new water heater because as many times as I've flushed this one, it still has many things in the water leaving us dirtier after a shower than before. That will be replaced in the morning.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Justin

pex

jlukasavige said:

I realize the valve isn't that expensive, but if it were easy to do, I'd replace it. The problem is that if I do that, I'll replace the shutoff valve as well. I don't have the $100 PEX too to do that. The copper elbows on top and bottom don't look like something made by PEX. I don't think I can sweat to them.

You do not need a $100 PEX tool. You need two wrenches to unscrew the PEX adapter fittings from the regulator. DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THE PEX. It makes it even easier as long as you are replacing the valve, if it is also screwed together, which we cannot see because of the covering, but if it is, then it is just a matter of screwing the new valve on, using the proper sized pipe nipple, and then the new regulator regardless of its size compared to the old one.

Click to expand...

I understand that I don't need to do PEX if I just replace the regulator, but if you actually read in my post that I said I would replace the shutoff valve as well, I WOULD need to do PEX.

In fact, that's what I did today. The shutoff valve does not screw off as you can see in the diagram. I redid all of the PEX except the very top one in the picture which I left alone. I also had to redo some PEX on the water heater where it attaches to copper before going into the heater. I'm assuming that both the hot and cold had a very slow leak over the last 6 years. I just don't trust PEX anymore. I'm sticking to copper.

While I was at it, I replaced the expansion tank as well as the water heater. I'm happy to say that everything works fine now. Thanks for all of your suggestions. I tried to avoid doing the PEX, but I couldn't see any way around it. The $100 tool was well worth the money which I saved on not having a plumber do a job as bad as the original.