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Thread: Remodel & Install of New Tank Location w/ Sediment Filtration

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Benchwrench's Avatar
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    Default Remodel & Install of New Tank Location w/ Sediment Filtration

    Greetings All.

    New to the forum.

    I'm no expert on the matter but I have a situation I'd like to share with you guys who know more than most...

    Our old Indiana home has a defective 26 gallon bladder tank which was installed in the crawl space some 30 feet from the the well with what looks like 1.5" or 1.25" PVC. (From the tank it's reduced to 3/4" copper through out the home.)

    I have purchased a new replacement 86 gallon tank and am locating it an additional 60' farther using 1.25" sch.80 PVC so this new tank will be located in the mechanical room in the basement. This new run of pipe needs to be strapped to the ceiling joists of the basement.
    Are there any requirements or ideas regarding running and strapping this pipe this way ?

    The well circuit is 20A. 220V. submersible pump I'm guessing it's a 40' well again guessing the pump/ motor maybe good for 10-15 gpm. max.
    Also purchased a "big blue" filter housing that fits 4.5"x 20" cartridges. (I chose the 30 micron pleated type).

    The total length of 1.25 " PVC pipe from the well head to the new tank location is maybe 90'.

    Could someone tell me if I have all the following components plumbed in the correct order ..?

    (from well casing) ---> 90' 1.25" PVC ---> Tank Manifold ---> 1" reducer nipple ---> 1" ball valve---> Pressure Regulator ---> Filter housing ---> 1" ball valve ---> 3/4" reducer bushing ---> to existing 3/4" copper plumbing through out home.

    Does the above sound about right ? am I forgetting something ?

    I appreciate your input guys, Thanks.

    Bench


    Indiana UPC base document for State code
    Last edited by Terry; 04-25-2011 at 10:00 AM.

  2. #2
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    In most areas, PVC is not permitted for potable water use inside a residence.
    The PVC must transition to copper, PEX, or CPVC at the point which it enters the home.

    You might be aware, but didn't say it, so I will also mention that the pressure switch must be at the tank, so if you move the tank, you will have to install new wiring to the location where the new tank goes.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Benchwrench's Avatar
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    There's wiring and a pressure switch on the new tank location.

    Thank you for the information about the transition from PVC to Cu. at POE even though it's in the basement.
    I know my neighbor has PVC plumbing to his tank located inside his home (pantry) but that doesn't mean it's legit.

    Does everything else look ok ?

  4. #4
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Yes, and in a crawl space, who cares if its PVC?

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member Benchwrench's Avatar
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    I was going to extend the 1.25 PVC to the new tank location which is now located in a finished basement utility room.
    Will PVC be acceptable across the ceiling in a basement or do I have to plumb it with 1.25" Copper once it makes a transition from the crawlspace across the basement ceiling to the new tank location ?
    Last edited by Benchwrench; 04-24-2011 at 10:23 AM.

  6. #6
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    PVC isn't allowed within the foundation. That's how the code reads. Ball Valve doesn't like code books, but if you ever inspect or sell the home, or have an insurance claim, it's best to be within the code.

    The plumbers here aren't going to recommend installing something that might have to be torn out.
    BallValve is a home owner like you. He's never had an inspection of his woirk.

    There is an update on post 15 that may allow for cold water piping with PVC inside a building on the cold water.
    Added 4/26/2011
    Last edited by Terry; 04-26-2011 at 03:57 PM.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Benchwrench's Avatar
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    Default confused about basement PVC plumbing code

    Being an electrician by trade I wanted post here to find out about running PVC in my basement was up to plumbing code. Thank you for your response.

    What I don't understand is why my neighbor has PVC inside his residence's pantry where his tank is located ? which by the way, was done by a plumbing contractor a couple months ago. (however what I see in electrical violations in the state of Indiana doesn't surprise me one bit, this house is no exception either )

    I also don't understand why code says I can't run 1.25" sch. 80 PVC between the well and tank in the basement but it's ok for it to be in the crawl space ? it's not even buried but lying on top of the ground in the crawl (some 30' of it).
    I see CPCV , pek pipe used on other jobs out there.
    Since my situation is only for a cold run to the well tank, why does plumbing code not allow PVC inside my basement used only for this type of run ?
    I was planning to strap this sch. 80 across the basement ceiling to the new tank location.
    A floor drain is present in the utility room near the new tank location.
    If code claims because of a freezing issue , I would think the crawl space would be colder than the basement where the furnace and ducts are located ?
    Last edited by Benchwrench; 04-24-2011 at 12:19 PM.

  8. #8
    In the trades WellWaterProducts's Avatar
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    PEX or CPVC may be suitable choices. For most residential applications, 1" is adequately large.
    ----
    Chris Kofer
    h2oguy.com




  9. #9
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Outside of the code book, can anyone define the increase in quality and durability in a CRAWL SPACE of PEX and CPVC over PVC?

    CPVC is just PVC adjusted in formula for use with hot water.

    Unfortunately Terry, most of what I do gets inspected. I'm not in Afghanistan, or New York where a 50$ bill gets anything passed.

    Also, considering the scrap yard just handed me 4 grand for old copper and brass junk, I am not very partial to PVC anyway.
    Last edited by ballvalve; 04-25-2011 at 12:49 PM.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member Benchwrench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballvalve View Post
    Outside of the code book, can anyone define the increase in quality and durability in a CRAWL SPACE of PEX and CPVC over PVC?
    my guess is Pex ability of expansion from freezing temps and numerous PVC glued joints, flexibility of use bowing and bending around structure and possibly HVAC. (just an uneducated guess) Personally I think it's a cost effective measure over any other objection, I still think PVC is more durable against critters teeth.
    but isn't it thin walled compared to say sch. 40 ?

    Hey, Thanks guys for all the help and info. I still wonder why my neighbor has PVC sch 40 to his tank located inside his house pantry/ closet ? He said he paid $500 for the job to a plumbing/ well contractor ! poor guy only got a 20 gal. tank out of the deal. That's like 2 closet flushes between pump cycles.
    Last edited by Benchwrench; 04-26-2011 at 11:28 AM.

  11. #11
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Why don't you go ask your local plumbing/building inspector? He is the one that should know what is ok in your area.

  12. #12
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Asking a the local plumbing inspector is a good idea.

    Here is an excerpt from the 1997 UPC code book

    604.1
    third line reads: Asbestos-cement, CPVC, PE, or PVC water pipe manufactured to recognized standards may be used for cold water distribution systems outside a building.

    CPVC water pipe and tubing may be used for hot and cold water distribution systems within a building.

    However, in the 2009 UPC code book, if you look at chart 6-4, it has this little statement at the bottom of the chart for PE and PVC
    1, For Building Supply or cold water applications.

    Name:  upc_2006_chart_6_4.jpg
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    It appears that the more recent code book allows PVC for cold water applications inside the building.
    I would still check with the local inspector though, to make sure that, I'm reading that right, and that you inspector is reading it that way too.

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member Benchwrench's Avatar
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    Thanks Terry, I'll also touch base with the local inspector.
    I also called a local plumber and he didn't see a problem going with PVC just more work involved, however he suggested PEX for the cold run to the tank and I agree with his recommendation. Being an electrician, I just don't have access to a 1" crimp tool.
    Last edited by Benchwrench; 04-27-2011 at 05:02 AM.

  14. #14
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    I think the PVC is allowed up to the meter or inlet valve to the house only.

    Tile nippers crimp band clamps quite nicely.

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