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Thread: Rainbird valve problem

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member leeelson's Avatar
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    Default Rainbird valve problem

    [Sorry if this question has been answered, but I can't seem to get the search engine to do an *AND* search rather than *OR*.]

    I have a Rainbird JTV/AS-100 anti-siphon valve (poorly written "manual" available at RainBird Website). For some time, when the valve is turned on (electrically, manually with the bleed screw or manually with the solenoid) there's a satisfying "thump" and the sound of a healthy water flow. After 30 minutes-1 hour (sometimes less), the flow slows to a trickle, then stops. There's an inline filter screen upstream that has been cleaned and water pressure at the filter's back end is *strong*. Thinking that this points to the valve diaphragm, I swapped it with an unused (but 3 year old) one. No change. [I have 4 other valves that work fine.] Is it possible that the valve solenoid is bad? I don't see how since I can turn it on manually and there's no improvement. Also, the bleed screw should bypass the solenoid altogether. I also tried swapping the diaphragm housing- no luck.

    Suggestions???

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    leeelson,
    just for clarification. are you opening the manual bleed screw and letting it run with the screw open the whole time? And does it run fine. You are then saying it shuts dowm after 30-60 minutes.??? You are correct in that opening the bleed bypasses the solenoid operation.

    If this system is on a well, do you have a main filter just beyond the tie in point that may be clogging on you?

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    DIY Junior Member leeelson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRD View Post
    leeelson,
    just for clarification. are you opening the manual bleed screw and letting it run with the screw open the whole time? And does it run fine. You are then saying it shuts dowm after 30-60 minutes.??? You are correct in that opening the bleed bypasses the solenoid operation.

    If this system is on a well, do you have a main filter just beyond the tie in point that may be clogging on you?
    Yes. I can open the manual bleed screw (and leave it open) *or* open the solenoid *or* use the controller. The result is always the same: the flow is choked off slowly. I tried removing the screen completely and it ran noticably better (but not as well as when new). The screen is fine mesh, and had a little debris even though it was cleaned about 3 hours prior. No other filter between here and the well that I know of (irrigation taps into the well before the house supply, which has its own filter). Also, the other 4 irrigation valves have no problem at all. They have a similar arrangement with a screen upstream- one screen for 4 valves. They are located about 50 feet away from the trouble valve.

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    Another question, after it slowly "chokes down" do you let it sit awhile and then can you start it again and go through the same sequence or do you find yourself cleaning the filter first before it will go again. Also, as it begins to slow down, are you seeing any water seepage from the vacuum breaker part of the valve. Have you always had this particular filter/screen combo? . Very fine mesh filter screens can have a fair amount of pressure loss through them and also can clog rather quickly under certain dirty conditions. Is there a way for you to put a pressure guage both before and after the in line filter to see if there is substantial loss difference from when you first start to when it fizzes out.? You have bypassed the solenoid by opening it manually and you have replaced the diaphragm and upper housing so I'm leaning toward more of a insufficient water flow problem.

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    DIY Junior Member leeelson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRD View Post
    Another question, after it slowly "chokes down" do you let it sit awhile and then can you start it again and go through the same sequence or do you find yourself cleaning the filter first before it will go again. Also, as it begins to slow down, are you seeing any water seepage from the vacuum breaker part of the valve. Have you always had this particular filter/screen combo? . Very fine mesh filter screens can have a fair amount of pressure loss through them and also can clog rather quickly under certain dirty conditions. Is there a way for you to put a pressure guage both before and after the in line filter to see if there is substantial loss difference from when you first start to when it fizzes out.? You have bypassed the solenoid by opening it manually and you have replaced the diaphragm and upper housing so I'm leaning toward more of a insufficient water flow problem.
    If I shut it down and let it sit for a half hour, the process repeats (i.e. some water flow) but less each time. The beginning of a cycle has more flow than the end. There's only leakage (at the bleeder screw) if I turn the valve on using the bleeder screw. The vacuum breaker "pops" sometimes but doesn't leak. There's no easy way to plumb a guage, but at *any* time if I open the handle on the screen housing (i.e. open the bypass) the water pressure is very large (i.e. seems about like the line pressure ~ 45 PSI). I'm guessing the screen is the problem. Maybe some serious flushing of the line before the anti-siphon valve would work.

    Thanks for your input.

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    leeelson,
    interesting problem you have here. I just don't see it being the valve itself, especially since you have already replaced the main potential problems and also in that you have bypassed the solenoid operation by opening the bleeder screw. So that leaves us with maybe a flow problem. I would eliminate the filter screen first and try that to see if that changes things. You have four other valves that work fine, so I would assume that the pump / pressure tank and other pumping equipment is working ok. That would leave you with the piping that supplies the problem valve. You may have to eliminate each section of pipe as the culprit until you determine where the problem lies. I'm interested in knowing what you find out, so please respond back when you figure it out.

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    I also have a problem with a orbit automatic valve conveter.The timer wont turn it on but the bleed valve will.How do i check for power at the valve?

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    Nice forum i'll be moving on

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