(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 32

Thread: Vortech Distributor

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member zientm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    You must believe the marketing and think you'll save enough water to justify the additional cost to buy one.
    I have to consider the total cost that someone will sell the system to me, though. I have looked around the internet for what seemed to be reputable dealers (including checking them out with the Better Business Bureau) and have come up with the following options for a 1.5 cu. ft. neutralizer with automatic back flushing (all prices including shipping and tax, if applicable):

    $535 with Fleck 5600 valve and gravel bed (not quite as confident in this company)
    $620 with Autotrol valve and gravel bed
    $649 with Fleck 2510 or Clack WS1 valve and Vortech distributor
    $670 with Clack WS1 valve and gravel bed
    $1218 with Fleck (non-electronic) valve and gravel bed, includes installation (quoted by local dealer)

    I am leaning towards the Clack valve, and it appears I can get a system with it cheaper if I go with the Vortech system. Of course, there are issues of after-sales support and the like, which are hard to discover before the fact. And maybe I just have not found the company offering the best deal yet...

  2. #17
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    And I will not bid on it because you are there and I am in Alaska. While I might have some ideas as to what could be done, I do not know the water there and what works best and what does not really work.

    As for Valve choices,,, 2510 or the Clack as both can be programed for different time frames of the cleaning cycle.
    Autotrol and 5600 can not be.

    With any valve choice I would not have the Vortech Distributor, I just could not trust it yet.

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member zientm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    12

    Default

    The info I have seen for the Clack says that it there are two options for Backwash/Rinse times: 14 and 8 minutes or 16 and 10 minutes. Not a whole lot of flexibility. I have been unable to find info on the Fleck - how adjustable is it?

    And my point on the Vortech is that it appears I would have to pay more to not get it.

  4. #19
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    448

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zientm View Post
    The info I have seen for the Clack says that it there are two options for Backwash/Rinse times: 14 and 8 minutes or 16 and 10 minutes. Not a whole lot of flexibility. I have been unable to find info on the Fleck - how adjustable is it?

    And my point on the Vortech is that it appears I would have to pay more to not get it.
    There are many different versions of the Clack valve electronics and the ability to adjust depends on the version you get.

    I think the minimum adjustment is offered on the TC version of the valve and when used as a backwashing filter there are three options for backwash/rinse:
    6/4, 10/6, and 14/8.

    On the other hand, if you get the EE version of the valve the backwash and rinse can be set within the range of 1-20 minutes for each.

  5. #20
    Previous member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    North of the Mason dixon Line
    Posts
    1,150

    Default

    You can't go wrong with either the Clack or Fleck heads. Both are very good pieces if equipment indeed. I sell a crap load of Fleck heads but that is more of a price thing than anything else ( lots of cost conscious folks around these parts) But I like the Clack's ease of service and adjustability. As far as the Vorteck, like I said, good idea, it works and I just don't have enough experience with them to quantify it yet.

  6. #21
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    It is the timer wheel and the moving of pins on the non sxt 2510.

    For the filter..
    More pins in the first set, longer backwash.
    a few spaces for what would be the brine draw and rinse.
    Then some pins for the rapid rinse.
    Then 2 spaces for what would be the brine refill and 2 pins for the end..

    I have been moving pins to change the setting on Fleck units for so long I don't even really think abou it any more, I just do it when needed.

    What is this Pay More Not to get it?

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member zientm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    12

    Default

    I understand. What is the resolution of the spaces? Is each space worth a couple minutes?

    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    What is this Pay More Not to get it?
    The prices I have found so far (with a Clack valve) are $649 with Vortech distributor, $670 without. So I would have to pay $21 more to get the standard gravel bed.

  8. #23
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob999 View Post
    It is nice when we can agree!.
    I meant it was your opinion.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob999 View Post
    Watts characterizes the water savings as up to 30%. My experience casts no doubt on that claim.
    What is your experience?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob999 View Post
    In the same installation I have seen a 12" Vortech tank with Filox media that is backwashed at 10 gallon per minute and the media is lifted with the 10 gpm flow. By comparison a 12" tank with traditional distributor, gravel underbed, and Calcite media is backwashed at 13 gpm and the bed is not lifted.
    IIRC Filox is quite a bit lighter than "calcite" but comparing two different minerals is not a true comparison of the two different types of tanks.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #24
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    448

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    IIRC Filox is quite a bit lighter than "calcite" but comparing two different minerals is not a true comparison of the two different types of tanks.
    Not sure what you are basing your statement on. Filox runs about 114 lbs per cubic foot and Calcite runs about 90 lbs per cubic foot.
    Last edited by Bob999; 01-16-2010 at 06:16 PM.

  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member zientm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    IIRC Filox is quite a bit lighter than "calcite" but comparing two different minerals is not a true comparison of the two different types of tanks.
    Filox is actually a bit denser at 114 lbs/cu ft versus 90 lbs/cu ft for Calcite.

  11. #26
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zientm View Post
    I have to consider the total cost that someone will sell the system to me, though. I have looked around the internet for what seemed to be reputable dealers (including checking them out with the Better Business Bureau) and have come up with the following options for a 1.5 cu. ft. neutralizer with automatic back flushing (all prices including shipping and tax, if applicable):

    $535 with Fleck 5600 valve and gravel bed (not quite as confident in this company)
    $620 with Autotrol valve and gravel bed
    $649 with Fleck 2510 or Clack WS1 valve and Vortech distributor
    $670 with Clack WS1 valve and gravel bed
    $1218 with Fleck (non-electronic) valve and gravel bed, includes installation (quoted by local dealer)

    I am leaning towards the Clack valve, and it appears I can get a system with it cheaper if I go with the Vortech system. Of course, there are issues of after-sales support and the like, which are hard to discover before the fact. And maybe I just have not found the company offering the best deal yet...
    You should know that the BBB must be joined by the dealer etc.. IMO that taints the info about the business.

    Are all of those using a top dome hole tank?

    Do they all include a by pass valve?

    Are the Clack WS-1 valves the same version?

    Since you have my AN filter listed, you know I include the top dome hole tank, the by pass valve and gravel but not that I also include a 50' coil of drain line and the Clack Wrench and that I use the CS version which allows me/you to select the length of time the backwashes and rinse positions run for. BTW, there are many more than just two choices as someone has said. And I am probably the only one that has real customers posting their experiences in a forum where anyone could contact them. That's comparing some web sites that have a list of customer "testimonials" that look to me as if they are made up. And I think you know where you would get the better after the sale service if needed.

    The non electronic version of the 5600 is a poor choice for that size AN filter. You can not change the length of time for the backwashes and rinse on it. And without knowing what version Autotrol control valve there's no way to compare Autotrol to Fleck and Clack valves.

    If you look at DIYer repair, you can't beat the ease and low parts prices of the Clack WS-1.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  12. #27
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zientm View Post
    And my point on the Vortech is that it appears I would have to pay more to not get it.
    That sounds as if you think all dealers should sell at the same delivered price.

    The weight of Filox, I've never sold it. Does the Vortech come with a top dome hole?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  13. #28
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zientm View Post
    I understand. What is the resolution of the spaces? Is each space worth a couple minutes?



    The prices I have found so far (with a Clack valve) are $649 with Vortech distributor, $670 without. So I would have to pay $21 more to get the standard gravel bed.
    There are 2 Fleck timer wheels, one that each space is 2 minutes and another that each space is 1 minute..

    From when the timer starts its run each pin or empty space equals some part of time , 2 minutes or 1 minute.

    So by adding pins one adds time to a part of the cycle, by adding spaces ,,, or by removing pins or spaces one removes time from the parts of the cycle.

    The Elect or computer control is done by increasing or decreasing the minutes for each cycle.

    The non computer is more simple, fewer different ways of doing, but there is only the motor and 2 micro switches, the computer control has more ways to doing things today than years ago, cheaper that 10 years ago to replace, but the whole computer board has to be replaced if it goes bad..

    I use the SXT of Fleck as often as I do with their older timer today and feel good about either of them when I put them in for my customers.

    The only thing that I can think of is that the dealer that you are using the price from has gotten a better deal on the new Vortech distributor so they are able to charge less for the setups than with the older setups.

  14. #29
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Dome Hole and Clack 1190... What a sweet setup.......

    Have many a up flow neutralizers set up that way and happy customers.

    But I really only pull this off if there is little to no iron in the water....

    Changing the Ph of the water with high(over 3ppm)iron gets the iron to oxidize and fall out of the water.

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member zientm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    You should know that the BBB must be joined by the dealer etc.. IMO that taints the info about the business.

    Are all of those using a top dome hole tank?

    Do they all include a by pass valve?

    Are the Clack WS-1 valves the same version?

    Since you have my AN filter listed, you know I include the top dome hole tank, the by pass valve and gravel but not that I also include a 50' coil of drain line and the Clack Wrench and that I use the CS version which allows me/you to select the length of time the backwashes and rinse positions run for.
    As far as I know, the BBB does not require membership to log and publish complaints against the company.

    All include the same size tank, top dome hole, and bypass valve. None of them state that they include drain line, and I would probably plumb it in PVC anyway so I can control the slope of the drain better.

    None of the sites specify which version of the Clack WS-1 valve. Your site does not specify that (or the fact that you include drain line and wrench). You may want to add that to your site if that is the case. The company selling it with the Vortech distributor uses the EE version of the valve, which gives you complete flexibility of the times, which, in my estimation, is better than the CS version.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •