These are my thoughts, which are subject to change. The framing is somewhat underway, but I'm not in a huge hurry....so feel free to correct me if an error is seen or a better method.
In my basement project, I am using 3/4" foamboad (XPS) attached with PL 300 and using Tyvek tape for the seams. I've found that you need to use about a tube of PL 300 per sheet of foamboad to get good coverage. I am also building a 2x4 wall in front and using unfaced batts so that the cavity can dry to the inside. For the rim joist, I am using 2" XPS and filling the rim joist cavities with R30 unfaced fiberglass for additional insulation and for a fire barrier.
Thanks for the heads up on the glue and tape.
As for the batts, I thought they weren't a good idea in the basement? With that said, I have been using them for a bit of sound deadening in interior walls, to block furnace/sump pump/laundry room sounds, and in the ceiling area, to block upstairs sounds and to keep sounds from basement in basement. I realize, it's not the best method, but it does help a little and for the price, it's been an easy solution.
So you think on the interior side of the XPS, the batting is ok? I was planning on the thin stuff, comes in an accordian bundle and is used a lot under vinyl siding, and glueing that against the wall. Then over that, I was planning on building my walls. Then filling the wall cavities with 1-1/2" pink/blue rigid foam. I'm guessing it is the XPS stuff, but I'm not sure of the tech names. They sell the white and the blue or pink. I'm bad remembering names....
On my top plate, I am using 2x6 PT lumber. This is so the top plate will go over the foamboad to create a fire block. I used PT for the top plate as it rests on top of the cinderblock wall.
I'm using PT 2x4 for the bottom plate and I am putting sill gasket material underneath it. This keep the PT from being in direct contact with the concrete and should extend the life of everything.
Good idea on the top plate, but I don't believe that will work well for me. In fact, only two walls, might, get top plates. The rest are going to be somewhat scabbed into place. Sounds messy and half-assed, but it's what works and is somewhat necessary in several spots. I left the gasket material out from underneath, as I wanted an escape if any moisture should get under there. Hmm... Since this is an old house, I am matching the baseboard trim with the 1"x6" stuff in the rest of the house which allows me to keep the drywall off the floor almost 2".
For drywall, I am still deciding. I have looked at Georgia Pacific DensArmor Plus, but many places around here no longer carry it. Lowe's has 15 sheets left here, but no longer get any new stock. I also hear that it is really difficult stuff to work with.
You're probably well on your way on the project already, but just wanted to let you know what has worked for me so far. Also, remember hozizontal fire blocking at 10' intervals and vertical fire blocking (usually the top plate, use fire blocking foam for cracks and holes for electrical/plumbing).
Good luck.
I've already decided for less than about $100 more I can get the unfaced mold/mildew resistant rock. Not sure who makes it, but it's sold locally at Lowes. It will go on all exterior surfaces and at the very least on the bottom few feet of the interior walls. I am debating on using it for the ceiling, especially below ductwork or water lines. Though all are insulated well, I don't want a future mold problem.
Over the rock I will be installing a beadboard wainscot (sp?), not sure if panel or true tongue and groove pieces. Have to price it up. When I did my bath, there didn't appear to be much savings on the panel type and the T&G looks more authentic.
I am well under way, unfortuneatly not with the insulating or framing, but moving some duct work, water lines, etc...
As for fireblocking. I know, it's a good idea in theory, but it is not something I'm even worried about. If this were a newer house, I'd do it. Being as this house has relatively little, if any, is there really any point?