Gary Slusser
That's all folks!
- Messages
- 6,921
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- Location
- Wherever I park the motorhome.
- Website
- www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Wes said:
You shut off the power to the pump and water to the house. You drain the tank. You undo the poly line from the well and unscrew the check valve and replace it and reverse the process.
The one in or on the pump's outlet... you pull the pump. Undo the cable and remove the pump from the drop pipe. Then, if you have an external check valve on the outlet of the pump, replace it. If the check valve is in the outlet, you have a problem. You take the wet end apart or pull the broken pieces out of the outlet hole and install an external check valve and put things back together and the pump back in the well. Remember to shut off the water to the house and the power to the pump before removing the casing cap on the well.
If you've never pulled a pump before, it can be an adventure, especially if you don't know what material the drop pipe is and how deep the pump is and how heavy all of it is. Most guys can't pull a pump (on poly tubing, not galvanized pipe) more than maybe 150' deep alone and by hand. And most will never do it that way again after doing it once. It is heavy, slippery, there's no handles on 'it' and if you let go of the pipe, your pump ends up on the bottom of the well and the end of the pipe is down there somewhere in the dark and maybe under water; waiting for you to find it and pull it back up.
Cost to have a pump guy or well driller or, a plumber that can pull a pump, varies widely depending on what is needed; pump pulling machine on the well casing or a derrick truck etc.. My minimum with a machine is $350-400 and that depends on travel time and distance, and that's to get the pump out only.
You should fix this yesterday, it's been going on for at least a month and it's not good for the plumbing and pump.
Gary
Quality Water Associates
