(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Pump start relay switch - how to test

  1. #1

    Question Pump start relay switch - how to test

    We had a lighting strike recently that fried both the controller and the pump relay switch. I've been replacing parts as I discover they're not working. Fun . I'm at the point where everything is working except the pump relay switch (I think).

    When the controller signals for water I can see with a volt meter that it's putting out ~26-27 volts AC. I'm measuring across the common and relay out terminals. I'm using a new controller. It's a Cyber-Rain http://www.cyber-rain.com/Products/products.aspx

    The pump start relay switch is a AEG SL07 http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/AEGHomePage/aeg_contactors/aeg_contactors_home.htm

    My problem is that when I have the controller apply the switching voltage, I don't see the switch close. I'm placing an Ohm meter across one of the pairs of contacts. When I press the switch on the relay next to the "10E" label I do see the switch close.

    I've bought two SL07 switches thinking the first was faulty, but I get the same results with the second one. I'm not an electrician so I may be way off base, but is it possible that the voltage is correct, but there isn't enough current put out by the controller to trip the relay?

    All thought are appreciated...

    F

  2. #2
    Homeowner Thatguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    1,460

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by garberfc View Post
    When the controller signals for water I can see with a volt meter that it's putting out ~26-27 volts AC. I'm measuring across the common and relay out terminals. The pump start relay switch is a AEG SL07 http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/AEGHomePage/aeg_contactors/aeg_contactors_home.htm

    My problem is that when I have the controller apply the switching voltage, I don't see the switch close. I'm placing an Ohm meter across one of the pairs of contacts. When I press the switch on the relay next to the "10E" label I do see the switch close.

    I've bought two SL07 switches thinking the first was faulty, but I get the same results with the second one. I'm not an electrician so I may be way off base, but is it possible that the voltage is correct, but there isn't enough current put out by the controller to trip the relay?

    All thought are appreciated...

    F
    Check the current draw into the contactor coil. It almost certainly is open, but it's unlikely that two in a row have open coil windings. Getting spec's on the coil resistance/impedance/current draw is pulling teeth [lack of info seems to work in favor of the vendor]. You'll probably have to call them.
    Last edited by Thatguy; 07-26-2009 at 02:01 PM.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguy View Post
    Check the current draw into the contactor coil. It almost certainly is open, but it's unlikely that two in a row have open coil windings. Getting spec's on the coil resistance/impedance/current draw is pulling teeth [lack of info seems to work in favor of the vendor]. You'll probably have to call them.
    Testing things like "Current Draw" are beyond me . The relay is the same model as the old one. The only component I'm replacing with a different maker/model is the CyberRain controller. That's why I'm thinking it's the controller.

    Thanks for the help.

    F

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •