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Thread: Grohe Safe 35-250-000 Pressure Valve installation question

  1. #1
    DIY Member FlynHokie's Avatar
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    Jan 2009
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    Default Grohe Safe 35-250-000 Pressure Valve installation question

    Good evening everyone.

    I'm back from a long trip for work, and can get back to remodeling my master bathroom. So far, I have all parts sitting in the garage for installation (Americh showerbase, Shower & Floor tile, grohe safe valve, grohe shower handle/head, Toto toilet, ronbow cabinet & sink, faucet, exhaust fan, etc..). I have the bathroom gutted, subfloor repaired and hardibacker installed.

    The old shower valve that I took off, which was in bad shape, was screwed into a horizontal 2x4 that was mounted between two studs in the shower frame. The new valve I have, a Grohesafe 35-250-000 Pressure Balance Rough in valve, will not fit against the 2x4. Fine, I'll rip the 2x4 out.

    The question is - how to I mount the valve to something solid, so it isn't just sitting on a hot & cold pipe? Shouldn't it be mounted to the shower frame somehow? The instructions do not show how to install it, nor can I find any installation pictures of similar models anywhere. Do you have any advice?
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    DIY Member FlynHokie's Avatar
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    Default more questions

    Also -

    When connecting the hot/cold inlets, and the shower output, how do you connect the threaded pipes? Do you turn them to a certain torque? Do you hand tighten? Do you sweat them to the 1/2" copper pipe?

    TIA!

  3. #3
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    Pipe threads are tapered and won't make a seal by themselves; you need to use either pipe dope or teflon tape. You can use both, sort of a belt and suspenders mentality - tape then dope. The quality of the fitting will make a difference in how easy it is to thread the thing into the female. You need to get it tight...it's something you get a feel for. Because the fitting is tapered, if you overtighten it, you could split the valve, but it takes a LOT of torque to do that normally. Hand tight will leak.

    What I'd do (note, I'm not a pro), is solder at least a 6" piece of pipe into the adapter, then using tape with pipe dope on top, tighten the pipe stub and adapter into the valve. This will give you a section of pipe that will act like a radiator when you install the rest of the connections - you can put a damp rag on the piece to keep heat from the valve, just not on the fitting you are trying to solder.

    Then, I'd use some copper clamps to hold the pipe sections to something you put in there for a brace. You could use a drop-ear el, if you can arrange it...those have ears you can put screws into rather than use clamps.

    Just make sure you understand the min/max when anchoring the valve so the trim fits with the wall covering you are planning.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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