Old AS Cadet repair

BimmerRacer · Mar 16, 2009

A few weeks ago I had to replace a wax ring on my toilet and had to remove the tank to remove the toilet. While in there, I noticed that the old black flapper thingy (sorry, I don't know the proper name) was nasty and cracking. When I was at the box store shopping for new seal between bowl and tank I picked up a new red flapper thingy and popped it on. Well, ever since the toilet handle needs to be jiggled/tapped after each flush in order for it to properly close the tank opening. It's annoying and my wife is not as skilled in tapping/jiggling as I am

Is there some sort of adjustment I can do to fix that?

Thanks!

Kingsotall · Mar 17, 2009

How tight is the chainÂ¿ It should have a bit of slack so that the flapper closes all the way but is taut enough when you go to flush you get the necessary amount of water leaving the bowl.

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SewerRatz · Mar 17, 2009

kingsotall said:
How tight is the chainÂ¿ It should have a bit of slack so that the flapper closes all the way but is taut enough when you go to flush you get the necessary amount of water leaving the bowl.

There should be a link or two of slack. Kingsotall beat me to the punch on this one. Another thing is what brand red flapper did you buy? if it is FluidMaster take it back. go with a Korky flapper.

BimmerRacer · Mar 17, 2009

It is a Fluidmaster. I didn't adjust the chain from the old flapper as it looked pretty much the same. I think the new one is a little thinner, which means the chain is a bit long, right? I just shortened it by 2 links....we'll see what it does. If this works, I am going to leave it as is as I already have a new Toto waiting for this bathroom remodel to start once the master is finished.

BimmerRacer · Mar 17, 2009

nope

I'll mess with it some more tonight I guess

SewerRatz · Mar 17, 2009

BimmerRacer said:
nope I'll mess with it some more tonight I guess

Get a Korky brand flapper. they are sturdier than the cheap fluidmasters.

SewerRatz · Mar 17, 2009

One other note. if your tank uses the hinges on the side cut of the round circle between the hinge points. I have seen many people slide the round part over the overflow and attach the hinge points. The round part is for the old lift wite and ball flushvalves.

Redwood · Mar 17, 2009

SewerRatz said:
Get a Korky brand flapper. they are sturdier than the cheap fluidmasters.

That would be my advice as well.

BimmerRacer · Mar 17, 2009

My flapper doesnt look anything like it. What I have is something called the seat disk apparently

http://www.fluidmaster.com/pdfs/5103_instructions.pdf

hj · Mar 17, 2009

flapper

You do not have a flapper, you have a tilt flush. If that disc is not perfect it will never seal. For that unit the only one I use are black OEM American Standard ones.

BimmerRacer · Mar 17, 2009

Ah, I was right when I called it a flapper thingy! Where does one get the OEM part?

Looks like Korky has three options.

American StandardÂ® Combo Seat Disc
p/n: 421BP
American StandardÂ® Snap-on Seat Disc
p/n: 422BP
American StandardÂ®
Screw-on Seat Disc
p/n: 423BP

I am not sure if local box stores have it or not.

BimmerRacer · Mar 17, 2009

So, I called Korky and they said the part is very uncommon and it's unlikely I will find it at a local store, so they are just going to send me one. Free. For never having done any business with them, I am impressed. I realize it doesn't cost much, but still. Nicely done! Hope it works

SewerRatz · Mar 17, 2009

Ahh the tilt flush American standard had a few different size options as well. It was the distance where the flush disk mounted to the actuator and where it hinged at. If I recall the shorter one is for the two piece water closet.

BimmerRacer · Mar 26, 2009

Korky did in fact send the disk. Actually, a whole box of them. I think 50?

What's funny is that the fluidmaster one started working. Maybe it needed to acclimate to the environment

Old AS Cadet repair

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