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Thread: Well Storage Tank replacement

  1. #46
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Well we all got it now except for a cave in. In my 16-18 year experience and the 7-8 counties I worked in, I think I may have heard of 2-3, so lets make it 5 wells that had any type of "cave in". All the wells in that area are all rock bore wells. The population was running somewhere around 250-350k with possibly 5-6 out of 10 having their own well.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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  2. #47
    DIY Senior Member mrmichaeljmoore's Avatar
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    I emailed Amtrol to see what size tank they recommended:

    I said:
    I currently have an Amtrol RT42T Tank.
    I am looking to replace this tank with a Well-X-Trol bladder tank.

    According to my well completion report:
    Well was drilled: October 1993
    Well Depth: 245 feet
    @ 245 Feet, 5 gallons per minute
    Static Water level is 40 Feet

    Pump is a Goulds 1/2HP Submersible Pump

    My house currently has only 1 bathroom. I am eventually planning on adding another full bathroom.
    Currently, there are 3 people in the house (2 adults, 1 toddler), eventually it will be a total of 4 people.

    Here are my questions:
    1. What tank do you suggest?
    2. What is the largest tank I should/could use?

    They responded:
    Based on the info you gave me the WX-202 20 gallon tank would be the min size tank for your system. You cannot over size a well tank and if you are expanding I would use a WX-205 34 gallon tank or a WX-250 44 gallon tank.



    So I am probably gonna go with the WX-250.

    Will let you know how it turns out.

  3. #48
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Mike, they sell tanks... A 1/2 hp pump comes with many different wet end gpm ratings; usually 5 gpm to 15+ gpm meaning, each size will deliver more or less gpm thena another and take more or less time to do it. Time is the key.

    You size a tank based on the draw down gallons of the tank which dictates the length of time the pump is off between pump starts for proper cooling, which per the pump motor manufacturer is 60 seconds minimum for up to a 1.5 hp motor.

    And going to a larger tank, if you have a low producing well, and don't know the static water level, you run the risk of pulling the well down to the point where the pump sucks air or it can not build sufficient pressure to shut itself off. That can overheat a motor and the thermal overload can shut it off due to too much heat. You also expose more of the inside of the well to air that has not been exposed with smaller draw downs, that can cause water quality problems.

    The best choice to reduce pump starts and prevent pulling the well down farther than needed is a small pressure tank and a CSV. That is hundreds of dollars less expensive and it takes up the least space and helps the tank to last much longer than one that is cycled more frequently regardless of its size. And all pump motors are rated for continuous operation.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #49
    DIY Senior Member mrmichaeljmoore's Avatar
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    Default Replacement Tank Installed

    Got the replacement tank installed today.
    When they removed the old tank, there was quite of bit of rusting/pitting on the old tank. Glad I had it replaced before it leaked!

    Cut in/Cut out pressure set at 68/48.

    Links to pictures attached.

    Amtrol WX-255 Tank

    How does the install look? Rather standard install, I assume.

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3564/...bed2bcfe_b.jpg

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3453/...28164ce3_b.jpg

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3452/...2c193961_b.jpg

  5. #50
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    I guess conduit isn't required where you live.

    bob...

  6. #51
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I wouldn't have put the check valve on it, and I would have it higher off the floor.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #52
    Radon Contractor and Water Treatment 99k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    I wouldn't have put the check valve on it, and I would have it higher off the floor.
    FYI, in connecticut I have never seen a tank sit directly on the floor (on blocks) and always has a check valve.

  8. #53
    DIY Senior Member mrmichaeljmoore's Avatar
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    quick question.....

    Is the pressure relief valve the brass circle just to the left of the green gate valve?

  9. #54
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    If you mean the green handled boiler drain, yes it is.

    bob...

  10. #55
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99k View Post
    FYI, in connecticut I have never seen a tank sit directly on the floor (on blocks) and always has a check valve.
    If I lived wherever a check valve was required at the tank, and the installer insisted he install one and did, I'd remove it after he left. It is not needed and hides leaks between the tank and the sub pump or foot valve in the well. A leak is not a good thing and can lead to seriuos problems; especially with a submersible pump.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  11. #56
    DIY Senior Member mrmichaeljmoore's Avatar
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    Wanted to follow-up again to make sure the new tank and old pump were operating properly.
    The pump kicks on at about 43-44 psi.
    When the pressure switch clicks, the needle in the gauge shudders/bounces around violently.
    The tank begins to fill and the pressure switch clicks again at about 67-68psi and the pump stops running.

    It took approximately 2 minutes and 19 seconds to fill the tank.

    So, a couple of questions:
    1. Is the gauge needle supposed to shudder when the pressure switch kicks the pump on?
    2. Does 2 min 19 sec sound right?

    Thanks.

  12. #57
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    That all depends on how much the pump is able to produce. A gauge will flutter like that when there is a vacuum on the pipe in front of that check valve that shouldn't be there in the first place.

    bob...

  13. #58
    DIY Senior Member mrmichaeljmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedbump View Post
    That all depends on how much the pump is able to produce. A gauge will flutter like that when there is a vacuum on the pipe in front of that check valve that shouldn't be there in the first place.

    bob...
    Why should there be no check valve?

  14. #59
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    I thought we already discussed that. There is one in the pump and that is all there should be. The one up top can only mask future problems and could help contaminate your drinking water.

    bob...

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