Hi:
Let me give a quick background on my questions, so you know what the overall project entails.
I am redoing the surround on an enameled tub in an apartment that I own. The previous tub surround (mostly demolished already) was lath/horsehair with patches of drywall in some areas against the studs, covered with glued-on masonite fake tile panels (4 by 8 sheets in the entire bath - style disaster, but one problem at a time), capped with a glued-on 5-piece plastic surround. Surprise, surprise, the wall was was not stable (has been unstable for some time) and the caulked joint at the tub would never hold,m allowing some water infiltration. There was no current wetness behind the surround (I have kept up with the caulking), but obviously there was previous of evidence of water and some dried-out mold in the plaster and fake tile. Right now I am seizing the opportunity for a more solid solution to make the surround watertight.
My plan is:
1) Strip everything down to bare studs above the tub, which I am keeping
2) Install 1/2-inch hardiebacker (want to paint above new surround and it seems smoother than Durock) over the studs working from top down in full sheets
3) Seal corner seams (no other seams will be present) and screws holes above level of new 5 piece surround
4) Prime and paint area above new 5-piece surround height
5) Install new heavier-duty 5 piece surround onto hardiebacker
I have the following questions:
1) What do I seal the corner seams and screws holes in the hardiebacker with before painting? (thinset?)
2) What type of primer and paint combo should I use for the hardiebacker?
3) Should I place a vapor barrier behind the hardiebacker? (House is more than 100 years old and walls are "well-ventilated"
)
Being an apartment, I want to avoid tiling and keep everything low maintenance and durable.
Thanks for reading this post.
Pete
Let me give a quick background on my questions, so you know what the overall project entails.
I am redoing the surround on an enameled tub in an apartment that I own. The previous tub surround (mostly demolished already) was lath/horsehair with patches of drywall in some areas against the studs, covered with glued-on masonite fake tile panels (4 by 8 sheets in the entire bath - style disaster, but one problem at a time), capped with a glued-on 5-piece plastic surround. Surprise, surprise, the wall was was not stable (has been unstable for some time) and the caulked joint at the tub would never hold,m allowing some water infiltration. There was no current wetness behind the surround (I have kept up with the caulking), but obviously there was previous of evidence of water and some dried-out mold in the plaster and fake tile. Right now I am seizing the opportunity for a more solid solution to make the surround watertight.
My plan is:
1) Strip everything down to bare studs above the tub, which I am keeping
2) Install 1/2-inch hardiebacker (want to paint above new surround and it seems smoother than Durock) over the studs working from top down in full sheets
3) Seal corner seams (no other seams will be present) and screws holes above level of new 5 piece surround
4) Prime and paint area above new 5-piece surround height
5) Install new heavier-duty 5 piece surround onto hardiebacker
I have the following questions:
1) What do I seal the corner seams and screws holes in the hardiebacker with before painting? (thinset?)
2) What type of primer and paint combo should I use for the hardiebacker?
3) Should I place a vapor barrier behind the hardiebacker? (House is more than 100 years old and walls are "well-ventilated"
)
Being an apartment, I want to avoid tiling and keep everything low maintenance and durable.
Thanks for reading this post.
Pete