Plumbing Time Bomb!

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NurseDoe

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I love my 1950's ranch house, with the 1970's add-on of bedroom, family room and "bath" (5x6, including tub/shower!). In the past few months/days all the plumbing has started to break in one way or another. It has led to serious remodeling for do it yourselfers. We are getting really frustrated with the lack of really good do it yourself books. Most of them leave out very important information. For example, my daughter in law and I read the books on moving supply lines in the bathroom. The solder sections left out the part that you can't solder with water in the pipes. For two days we could not figure out why our horizontal pipes came out so well, but the two bottom pipes would never work out right! Duh!


We need a good book with PICTURES. Something like Plumbing for dummies with big color pictures for people who don't know simple things like where washers go. Pictures of tools, and of parts. The rest of this post is just general whining about the lack of good diy books for beginners. :confused:

I mean what the heck is a closet flange? I open the toliet box and it tells me that I need a closet flange. Many trips to Home Depot and Lowes, walking up and down the aisles, looking the closet flange section in the "repair toliet" section. Eventually, I found them in another section and they looked nothing like the chrome "flange" that covers up the holes in walls for the pipes. So, now I gather a flange isn't always a decoration. Sometimes it goes in floor. And you don't need one, if you already have a heavy cast iron one.


Now, we are wondering if there are plumbing gremlins/polterguist. I just wanted to replace an ugly 70's vanity with a pedestal sink, which led to the discovery that water supply lines we crossed like x's, and the drain/vent was @ a 45 degree angle etc. It ended ripping out all the wall and learning to run supply lines. So much time could be saved if there were books to explain the little things most people ( but apparently not us) already know. Which way does the washer go on? Which way do you wrap teflon tape? You can't keep reusing compression rings when you mess up. Which order do you assemble the p trap in a tight quarters? Can you join chrome and plastic parts? Why is plumbers tape, not tape at all? What a long time it took us to do simple things.

Just as my toliet and sink got working, the second bath/shower combo on the 1950's side began leaking OUTSIDE!. Water pressure low, and coming out the little "plumbing door" outside. So we tried replacing fixture handles, but it leaked even worse, with water pouring out of the shower/bath adjusting handle. We bought a whole new shower/tub fixture set up, which meant tearing out stucco.

We are in the middle of that, when bathroom #3 sink gets clogged, we undo the whole thing, expecting to find ABS drain pipe, but noooooo. Some strange not copper metal that complete disintegrated in her hands. It is not possible to get tools in that tight place so it looks like we have to tear out the sink and vanity and figure out how they did drain/vents in the 1950's.

And NOW the darn dishwasher is acting crazy! It makes loud vibrating noise when running. We thought it wasn't draining because sometimes we found water in the bottom after running it. BUT, today, I emptied the dishwasher, no water in the bottom. I began cleaning the kitchen, running disposal and poof, dirty water in the bottom of the dishwasher. No books tell us about that. None explain how the loops of the drain hose should be. the online diy sections say to check the position of the drain hose. But doesn't say what it should look like. My grandmothers dishwasher had an air vent in the sink. Mine doesn't. Why? WE need pictures!
 

Backglass

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Wow, I cant wait to see the colorful responses from the plumbers. :p

I just learned by doing, observing and a lot of help from good ole Google. I do a lot myself (sink supplies, snake a clog, replace a leaky faucet, etc...but I call in the pros for the big stuff, like when I finished my basement out and needed to turn the picture below into a toilet flange and shower drain pan.

I wouldn't have the first clue what to do.
 
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NurseDoe

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Wow! I wouldn't know what to do with that. There was talk, but only talk about moving my toilet a foot, but once we realized how hard that would be, we just let it go. Messing with foundation is not a diy.

It is not that I don't want to call a plumber. I would if I could afford one. I am learning in self defense! However in all fairness to them -dang, that is hard work! Also, how do you define a plumber? I really don't know. Can you just call yourself a plumber? There is no a plumbing university. So, I assume it all on the job training.

I usually first try a professional if I know I am over my head. The bathroom remodel was done with a cell phone camera and the smartest woman in the world, Bonnie. She works in plumbing at Home Depot- I would guess she is over 60 and has been plumbing, and remodeling bathrooms since she was a child ( her father was a plumber). But, she doesn't call herself a plumber.

So, exactly what is a plumber? Some guys who have been to my house call themselves plumbers, and advertise as plumbers. But more than once, a "more experienced" plumber or the "owner" comes out and fixes what they did not.

I am a nurse. So are the young ones like Residents? Interns? Still learning? I am fine with that if they would just tell me that when they get here. I would love to understand how the whole "trade" thing works. Is there a license, with a test? I suspect several tradesmen that have been out here are using someone elses license. How do you know?

nursedoe
 

GrumpyPlumber

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nursedoe said:
So, exactly what is a plumber? Some guys who have been to my house call themselves plumbers, and advertise as plumbers. But more than once, a "more experienced" plumber or the "owner" comes out and fixes what they did not.
nursedoe

All it took me was a few short, easy years crawling around in attics midsummer, under 18" crawspaces, lugging two 5 gal buckets of dirt/concrete at a time after drilling a few hundred pounds of concrete slab, overhead soldering that drips onto your face, forcing your forearms into the backside of trip wastes in ceilings and ignoring the pain as you scrape them.
Then you sit through several hundred hours of school at the end of those days twice a week for those few years.
You study, take the test and pass if you studied hard.
Once you get the license, you've earned the priviledge to walk into peoples homes and give free estimates.
I shoulda been a nurse.
 

Kordts

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Depends what state you are in. Some states have stricter licensing and registration laws than others. Plumbing is the same as any other profession/job. Some love it, some hate it, some are in it for the paycheck, some are in it because of ancestry, some are born and some are made. I was made. I bet you know lousy nurses, great nurses, and average nurses.
 

Cookie

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I think what she wants to know is how can she tell if she is getting a plumber who is certified not a handyman.
Like their are Rn's, Lpn, NA's in nursing.
 

Frenchie

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Plumbing books... basic diy-level stuff?

Surprisingly (their books are usually lame) Black & Decker's book (available at most home depots) covers most of the basics, and it's really well illustrated.

It won't get you into the intricacies of designing a system, figuring out how to calculate flowrates & pitch & venting & such... for that you need one of these guys... but it'll give you all the basics.

Did I mention the pictures are really well done?

My favourite way to look up parts & things like that, is with google image search.

This forum's archives are real handy. Learn to use that search button, it's a lifesaver (and often entertaining, as well).


Certification...

Ask to see the license, check with the regulating agency (some places it's town, some places it's county, some places it's state) that it's legit, and issued to that person.

You might live in a place without regulation / licensing rules.

Either way, you can & should ask to see proof of insurance.
 
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NurseDoe

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All I had to do

All it took me was a few short, easy years crawling around in attics midsummer, under 18" crawspaces, lugging two 5 gal buckets of dirt/concrete at a time after drilling a few hundred pounds of concrete slab, overhead soldering that drips onto your face, forcing your forearms into the backside of trip wastes in ceilings and ignoring the pain as you scrape them.
Then you sit through several hundred hours of school at the end of those days twice a week for those few years.
You study, take the test and pass if you studied hard.
Once you get the license, you've earned the priviledge to walk into peoples homes and give free estimates.
I shoulda been a nurse.

I have nothing but respect for plumbers. Honestly, it is back breaking work (much like nursing). Lord knows we both deal with lots of excrement:rolleyes:
So, first you do the on the job training-then you go to school? That seems harder.

I have spent at least six hours on the newly installed tile floor reconnecting and unconnecting the freaking p trap from the new sink. It worked all day just fine. Until we really needed it to work. It started leaking again. Of course, at the top, behind the pedestal - where I have to do yoga to fit. Too small for tools. I then spent another few hours with other related plumbing things...like trying to figure out why the dishwasher is getting water in it from the sink. My neck really hurts now. Tomorrow I will spend hours digging a trench for the a project my daughter in law is doing. The one that resulted in a broken water main.

As we speak, my daughter in law is outside with bright lights, trying to solve the shower problem. We agree it is VERY hard work. Lots of it reminds me of trying to solve jig saw puzzles without a picture to look at.

So, there is a license. I am going to ask next time we call one out. That may be tomorrow from the sounds of the pounding out there. Do they carry it with them? Like a driver license with photo?
 

GrumpyPlumber

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nursedoe said:
I

So, there is a license. I am going to ask next time we call one out. That may be tomorrow from the sounds of the pounding out there. Do they carry it with them? Like a driver license with photo?


Yes, but most states don't have a photo.
The PE pipe that was severed in your original story isn't standard stock that any of us carry with us on the truck. (unless we know we're tying in a water main on new construction...Ford fitting)
It's specifically something the DPW works with, which is why things turned out the way they did for you.
Sometimes it seems like people are all too eager to expect us to run out to their homes on our time/gas and give estimates for free...you have to understand things from the other perspective.
As far as finding a good plumber, Here's a hint, We don't advertize nearly as much...we don't have to. (word of mouth travels fast for good work)
You'd do well to ask your neighbors, ask around in town, or old fashioned trial and error as a last resort.
We're not cheap, look around at prices for standard plumbing tools like threading machines, soil pipe cutters, torches, pipe wrenches, right angle drills...you'll soon see where alot of the money goes.
If you aren't able to get word of a good plumber, then do what you did for the PE leak and have several guys come out and listen to what each says.
As far as the work you need done...it sounds like you have galvanized drains...thats trouble waiting to happen, I might suggest you have the work done in "bite sized" pieces that you can afford as you go.
 

Cass

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Grumpy, I don't thing it was PE.

The guy beveled it and I have never had to bevel any PE pipe to get a Ford Pack fitting on. They are CTS. BTW I cary 2-3/4" and 2-1" fittings and stiffeners on the truck. Maybe the beveler mentioned was a flairing tool.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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Cass said:
Grumpy, I don't thing it was PE.

The guy beveled it and I have never had to bevel any PE pipe to get a Ford Pack fitting on. They are CTS. BTW I cary 2-3/4" and 2-1" fittings and stiffeners on the truck. Maybe the beveler mentioned was a flairing tool.

Aaahhhhh...another breed of horse altogether.
 

NurseDoe

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Bevel

GrumpyPlumber said:
Aaahhhhh...another breed of horse altogether.


I think that he had to bevel it because it was probably not cut straight. I asked about the tool he used. It was just a cylinder of a heavy metal that he slid the pipe into and twisted, leaving a beveled edge. It seemed to be something that they did as a matter of routine or policy. He said that the sharp edge of the pipe that the kids cut had cut the O ring. I will try to get to figure out how to post a picture of the nightmare pipe later today.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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It's either compression or a flare, like Cass said.
The fact that it had to be "bevelled" leads me to think he was right about flare.
 

Jadnashua

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On the SHarkbite fittings, they highly recommend their bevel tool - it fits over the pipe and makes a very fine bevel on the end; it also takes any burrs off. Chopping a chunk out of the O-ring or slicing it is quite possible without using that tool first. The ones I've seen on the rack have openings for several pipe sizes. Other fittings that use O-rings are as susceptible to damage as well, and can benefit in the same manner.
 

NurseDoe

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Yeah, that is what the water guy said. It needed a very fine bevel at the end and it would remove burrs.

We have moved on to the next disaster. We had leaking shower faucets. Tried replacing them but they would never seem to be tight enough. So, last night Dorothy, my daughter in law took off the stucco, to find the shower fittings (pipes). The new one just wouldn't seem to fit in far enough. It took awhile of talking and looking at the pictures in the brand new Black and Decker plumbing book with GREAT pictures, for us to figure out that none of those pictures have the fittings in 2. 25 inches of cement/concrete. Not wall board, green board or anything prefab. Thick, heavy cement/concrete ( I am not sure about the difference. It is in two layers! Each more than an inch thick. We are thinking that is why no fittings would work.

One solution would be to move. Today, that sounds good to me.

Another is to scrape off enough of the cement to fit the pipes in there.

Another is to get some nice caps, and let everyone use a different shower.

Did I mention moving?

I don't think the builders were trying to make our lives hard. I think they were doing a really good job. Everything in the 1950's part of the house is really well made. A few inches of concrete probably seemed like a good idea at the time. They probably made their own fittings to go through the wall. They probably didn't know that in 60 years people would use cement board and they would only make much shorter fixtures/fittings. We are trying very hard to save the cool old fashioned tile. It looks brand new!

And yes, Grumpy plumber, they used a lot of iron for the drains back in the day. And they look pretty yucky, rusty they need to be replaced. Once we get the showers running, that will be the next project. For A PLUMBER!

Lastly, the Black and Decker book is great! Pictures of what things are. Pictures of the order washers, rings nuts etc go on. But, again, everything they install in nice new constructions. No crazy pipes. But so far, the best book we have seen.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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jadnashua said:
On the SHarkbite fittings, they highly recommend their bevel tool - it fits over the pipe and makes a very fine bevel on the end; it also takes any burrs off. Chopping a chunk out of the O-ring or slicing it is quite possible without using that tool first. The ones I've seen on the rack have openings for several pipe sizes. Other fittings that use O-rings are as susceptible to damage as well, and can benefit in the same manner.

This is the most sensible interpretation yet...I was trying to figure out what kinda flared fitting uses an O ring...didn't make sense.
 
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