Gerber Shower Repair Question w/PIC

uwssnowbird

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• Mar 21, 2007

• #1

I've purchased a full set of new handles and stems to replace in this 25+ year old bathroom.

Upon removing the handle and outer chrome cover it looks like this (see pic). This is the Hot supply.

Now according to the schematics I've seen that should just be a sleeve on top and I need to remove it as well. Trick is it seems to be pretty solidly attached.

I also didn't expect to find the metal plate which seems to loosely hold the sleeve relative to a lower fitting.

Anyone seen this before? Should I just reef on the sleeve harder or should I try to open up the tile a little more for a better look at this?

 

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Jimbo

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• Mar 21, 2007

• #2

Pic is a little dark.. but the sleeve should just unscrew off of the stem body. The screwdrive slot below the stem is a stop valve, so you can take this apart without turning off the whole building. Make sure the stop is holding before removing the stem!

 

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uwssnowbird

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• Mar 21, 2007

• #3

Ok, I'm going to need to pick up a pipe wrench tomorrow so I can get a better grip on the sleeve (I think gerber calls this an eschetcheon tube). If you can think of a better tool for this let me know. I have stem wrenches and a seat wrench so I should be all set once I can actually get to the stem.

thanks for the tip on the stop valve!

John

 

Plumber1

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• Mar 21, 2007

• #4

Pipe wrench is the last thing you want to use. When you egg shape that sleeve, makes it harder to turn. Try a small strip of emery cloth and grip it with your hand. Take a wooden hammer handle and tap it the end 0f the tube first.

Then use one of your tub and shower socket wrenches. If you have the socket wrenches, you may even slip it on the retainer nut with out removing the sleeve. Don't forget to turn the faucet stem to an open position first.

 

hj

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• Mar 22, 2007

• #5

tube

Find a socket that fits snugly into that sleeve, (mine is a 15/16 impact socket). Then grab the tube and socket with a pair of pliers. The socket will prevent distortion and the tube should unscrew somewhat easily.

 

uwssnowbird

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• Mar 22, 2007

• #6

plumber1 said:

Pipe wrench is the last thing you want to use. When you egg shape that sleeve, makes it harder to turn. Try a small strip of emery cloth and grip it with your hand. Take a wooden hammer handle and tap it the end 0f the tube first.

Then use one of your tub and shower socket wrenches. If you have the socket wrenches, you may even slip it on the retainer nut with out removing the sleeve. Don't forget to turn the faucet stem to an open position first.

Click to expand...

Thanks, There is not enough clearance inside the sleeve to get the stem socket inside the sleeve and onto the stem body. So I think the sleeve needs to come off. Thanks to this and the following post I'm sure I'll mange that this weekend.

I'm new to this site but very impressed with the knowledge being shared.

Thanks again.,

John

 

Verdeboy

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• Mar 23, 2007

• #7

If you don't have these, you need to buy them: As HJ said, use one of them to put inside the sleeve to prevent deforming it while unscrewing with a channel locks. Then use another one for removing the valve stems.

 

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uwssnowbird

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• Mar 23, 2007

• #8

Worked like a charm

Wedging a stem wrench inside the sleeve and then grabbing it with channel locks did the trick. The seat gave me a bit of a fight as well but with the right tools and help from this forum the Hot side is done and works like a charm.

I didnt get far on the cold side as the handle doesnt want to come off. Will pick up some WD40 in the morning and if needed I assume there is some sort of pulling apparatus available.

Anyway, it's a pleasure not to have the Hot handle scalding hot becuase of water leaking inside any more!

J

 

Verdeboy

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• Mar 24, 2007

• #9

Get a handle pullers. It'll remove that handle in 5 seconds.

 

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uwssnowbird

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• Mar 24, 2007

• #10

All Done .. Many thanks!

Just finished replacing the cold and the diverter.

The handle puller was indeed an excellent investment.

I found it important to tighten the bonnet nut into the stem body quite firmly. This seems to insure the washer grips the stem and prevents water leaking along the stem and into the handle which was what I was trying to fix in the first place.

Thanks very much for you help. I will be strongly recommending this site.

J

 

Verdeboy

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• Mar 24, 2007

• #11

FYI, That nut is called the packing nut and doesn't require removing the stem to tighten. You can even remove the nut and replace the packing material if it's all squished down. But you've gotten in a lot of plumbing experience here, which can't hurt.