Bigger washer drain - 1.5 to 2"

My washing machine presently drains into a copper 1.5" standpipe which goes though a CMU wall and tees into a vertical 1.5" copper drain (see attached picture). At the slab the copper connects to cast iron in what looks to be a lead and oakum joint. Right at the joint it actually looks like 2" copper pipe connected with a reducer to the 1.5".

I'd like to make it all 2" so that I can add a laundry sink and eventually a kitchen sink, but first I need to figure out the easiest way to adapt the cast to 2" ABS pipe.

I've searched the forums and found lots of good information on drilling/replacing lead and oakum joints, but I was wondering if there is an easier way: Can I just unsolder the reducer (I hope that's a reducer I'm looking at) and then use a coupler to connect 2" ABS to the copper stub?

Assuming I can get it all changed over to 2" pipe, my plan is a 2x2x2 tee directed through the original, enlarged hole in the hollow tile wall and a 2x1.5x1.5 tee on top of that to go to the laundry sink. Is there any other way to do it so that I don't have to drill a new hole through the concrete masonry unit wall?

All of this is in a single story, 40 year old house. Thanks for any advice or tips you might have.

If you do have a reducer coupling taking it from 2" down to 1.5" and you can remove it and still have a 2" nipple you can get a banded coupling that is specifically for going from 2" copper to 2" PVC and run 2" to the washer box. When the code was 1.5" they saved $$$ by reducing down to 1.5" instead of running 2" all the way.

Is there a p trap that is not visible? I know you're basically concerned about the pipe sizing, but there needs to be a trap.

Gary Swart said:

Is there a p trap that is not visible?

Click to expand...

Yes, the trap and existing 1.5 " standpipe are on the other side of that wall (the one that the "to the washing machine" arrow is pointing towards.

Good! Then just follow the plan Cass gave you and you should be fine.

Thanks for the help!