I am a newbie to this forum. It's great! I have read many of the threads and there are some really knowledgable people on this forum. I hope you can help me.
Primary Problem: My well pump keeps running.
I just installed a new Pumptrol 40-60 psi pump control switch. It has 5 year old AO Smith bladder pressure tank that sits on the floor and is chest high. The pressure on the Shrader valve is set to 38 psi.
Here are well specifics of the well:
I moved into the house in 1990.
House built in 1979.
Soil is very, very sandy
Well depth is about 60 feet.
Bladder pressure tank is in the basement.
Water line is 40 feet from the house / basement to the well down pipe.
I measured the gpm a couple of years ago by opening up a water spigot and it measured 4 gallons per minute.
Downpipe is galvanized pipe
Submersible pump -- replaced in 1995.
2004-- installed a new Pumptrol pressure switch to increase pressure 10 psi. Original pressure switch was a 30-50. Upgraded to 40-60 and it made quite a difference in the house when showering and using the sinks, filling the washer, watering and the like. It wasn't spectacular, but it was servicable.
TODAY / CURRENT SITUATION -- Pressure was staying at 40 psi even when I tried adjusting the pressure switch so I decided to replace the existing 40-60 switch with a brand 40-60 psi new one. I was thinking that maybe the pressure switch was plugged. I also installed it with a new 6" long 1/4" pipe. However, I did not fill the 6" pipe with water. I first installed the pipe (with teflon tape) on to the switch and installed it as an assembly. So, is it compressing the air in the up pipe / pressure switch and not signalling sufficient pressure to shut it off? If so, then I would think the pressure should be building beyond 40 psi. I also installed a new pressure gage next to pressure switch mounting location. Another pressure switch is threaed onto the water tank dump spigot. Both read 40 psi max. The pressure gage on the hot water tank also as tattle tale marker. The highest pressure recorded is 43 psi.
The in-line water filter picks up a lot of sand and rust. I replace it every couple of weeks. I use a 20 micron sediment filter.
Water softener is installed in the system.
Questions:
Why won't the pump shut off? I wired it the same. Trust me. I even took a digital picture of it before changing out the pressure switch. I have a water well service company coming out (they dig and repair wells). The tech thinks I have a leak in the pipe going down to the submersible well pump.
Broader question is about the amount of sediment, rust and sand I get in the filter. In 1990 my home was rural residential. In the last 16 years subdivisions have moved in and over 250 nearby acres have been developed into 1/4 to 1/2 acre lots with homes. This has probably affected the water table. I know I have to drinking a lot of lawn fertilizer. Why do I have all the sediment? Is there a screen in the pump that's torn? If the answer is to dig another well, I do have the option of hooking up to city water line in front of my house. I could switch over to city water for about $2500 to trench and connect.
What's the average life of a submersible well pump?
What is reasonable price for a submersible well pump?
Primary Problem: My well pump keeps running.
I just installed a new Pumptrol 40-60 psi pump control switch. It has 5 year old AO Smith bladder pressure tank that sits on the floor and is chest high. The pressure on the Shrader valve is set to 38 psi.
Here are well specifics of the well:
I moved into the house in 1990.
House built in 1979.
Soil is very, very sandy
Well depth is about 60 feet.
Bladder pressure tank is in the basement.
Water line is 40 feet from the house / basement to the well down pipe.
I measured the gpm a couple of years ago by opening up a water spigot and it measured 4 gallons per minute.
Downpipe is galvanized pipe
Submersible pump -- replaced in 1995.
2004-- installed a new Pumptrol pressure switch to increase pressure 10 psi. Original pressure switch was a 30-50. Upgraded to 40-60 and it made quite a difference in the house when showering and using the sinks, filling the washer, watering and the like. It wasn't spectacular, but it was servicable.
TODAY / CURRENT SITUATION -- Pressure was staying at 40 psi even when I tried adjusting the pressure switch so I decided to replace the existing 40-60 switch with a brand 40-60 psi new one. I was thinking that maybe the pressure switch was plugged. I also installed it with a new 6" long 1/4" pipe. However, I did not fill the 6" pipe with water. I first installed the pipe (with teflon tape) on to the switch and installed it as an assembly. So, is it compressing the air in the up pipe / pressure switch and not signalling sufficient pressure to shut it off? If so, then I would think the pressure should be building beyond 40 psi. I also installed a new pressure gage next to pressure switch mounting location. Another pressure switch is threaed onto the water tank dump spigot. Both read 40 psi max. The pressure gage on the hot water tank also as tattle tale marker. The highest pressure recorded is 43 psi.
The in-line water filter picks up a lot of sand and rust. I replace it every couple of weeks. I use a 20 micron sediment filter.
Water softener is installed in the system.
Questions:
Why won't the pump shut off? I wired it the same. Trust me. I even took a digital picture of it before changing out the pressure switch. I have a water well service company coming out (they dig and repair wells). The tech thinks I have a leak in the pipe going down to the submersible well pump.
Broader question is about the amount of sediment, rust and sand I get in the filter. In 1990 my home was rural residential. In the last 16 years subdivisions have moved in and over 250 nearby acres have been developed into 1/4 to 1/2 acre lots with homes. This has probably affected the water table. I know I have to drinking a lot of lawn fertilizer. Why do I have all the sediment? Is there a screen in the pump that's torn? If the answer is to dig another well, I do have the option of hooking up to city water line in front of my house. I could switch over to city water for about $2500 to trench and connect.
What's the average life of a submersible well pump?
What is reasonable price for a submersible well pump?
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