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Thread: Another "toilet flange" too high question

  1. #1
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default Another "toilet flange" too high question

    Name:  DSC01503   2.jpg
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Size:  57.4 KBI have just finished "dry fitting" my new pvc plumbing for a total bathroom remodel. The toilet flange is too high for my anticipated finished tile floor level, by about 1". The current dryfit has the correct slope. (I will sister new joists next to the ones that have been "notched" to re-establish structural integrity.)

    I suspect there may be a different way to get what I need, but the big box stores around here don't give a lot of options.

    Does anyone know of alternative plumbing pieces or ideas other than raising the floor or putting the stool on a platform?

    Does anyone see any problems with the layout of the rough in plumbing to this point?

    Thanks!
    Jim Seaberg

  2. #2
    Plumbing Contractor srdenny's Avatar
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    Default Another "toilet flange" too high question

    "Does anyone see any problems with the layout of the rough in plumbing to this point?"
    Where's the vent for the WC?
    If it's behind the wall, then the 2" line branching off the 3" before the 1/4 bend is going to cause a wet vent situation.
    Are you aware that the cuts made in the floor joist completely ruined it from a structural standpoint?

    Does anyone know of alternative plumbing pieces or ideas other than raising the floor or putting the stool on a platform?
    Try using a 3x4 PVC closet bent and a 4" spigot ring. The 3x4 bend has a shorter pattern then the 3" st 90 you're using. Otherwise, build up the floor.

  3. #3
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default vent issue

    Time to show how little I know....

    The 3" waste line goes into a vertical 4" cast iron line that extends through the roof.

    So, I assume that this does create a "wet vent". I basically re-constructed what had been there when I tore out the plywood patch floor. In speaking with the previous owner, the original lead drain to the bathtub failed, so he made the repair/replacement in the attached pic. (note the wye and, if you can see it, there was a 1.5" belly in the 2" line.

    The two inch line you see coming in is for the shower (yet to be installed). There is a sanitary T where a 1.5" line will run to the vanity, that is vented up the wall, then through the roof. The trap for the shower is 4.5 feet from the main vertical stack, and about 5 feet to the vanity vent. ( I have read here that 5 feet is too far for venting for 1.5" pipe, I think.)

    Anyone want to make a road trip to beautiful Decatur, Illinois? We are the soybean capital of the world!

    Jim

    Suggestions on how to correct? HELP!

    I like to work on the supply side of plumbing a lot better than the waste side! (At least it is fairly easy to understand....)

    p.s. I assume the toilet has been unchanged since originally installed, circa 1914, until the "repair" you see below. And yes, the joists will be sistered with new lumber to bring back their structural integrity.

    Thanks!
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    Last edited by jrseaberg; 12-24-2006 at 09:34 AM.

  4. #4
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    I like to use the 4x3 closet street bend with 4" hub ring, I can cut one side to slip down farther over the bend.

    You still need a way to vent those things. Sometimes you have to cut in a wye fititng in the vertical wall below.


  5. #5
    Plumbing Contractor TNPlumber's Avatar
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    Default You need a vent.

    Regardless of how it was before, your wc needs to be vented. I'm afraid when you flush the toilet with this set up, you will suck the traps dry on your other bathroom fixtures.

    Here are my suggestions, not being able to see the whole system. Where your 2" branch line is now, move it back a joist bay closer to where you sliced into the cast iron. Where your 2" branch for you shower/ vanity is currently, use this area to configure a vent. But you won't be able to use the wye in it's current configuration because it lying on it's side.

    Structurally, something needs to be done to these joists--they have been butchered over the years. Others may have a better plan, but regardless, you need to vent each fixture.

    Just my 2 cents,

    Scott

  6. #6
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default Let me ask single questions...

    So, even though the toilet sits about 2' from the main waste/vent line, the WC needs a vent independent of the 3" PVC? (Is this what you mean by a "wet vent"?)

    Is that what the 3" elbow w/ a 2" side inlet or back inlet that I have seen is for?
    Last edited by jrseaberg; 12-26-2006 at 08:04 AM.
    Jim Seaberg
    Decatur, IL

    Old home lover, old home hater (when things don't go right!), .... Gee, kinda sounds like a country song!

  7. #7
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default 2nd individual question

    The vanity is vented up through the wall, and out through the roof, too.

    Do I need to worry about venting that again? Or can I tie the drain line into the 2" shower drain line as I have dry fit it (the 2"X1.5" wye laying on its side in the picture.)? (I gather the wye should be a T?)
    Last edited by jrseaberg; 12-26-2006 at 07:10 AM.
    Jim Seaberg
    Decatur, IL

    Old home lover, old home hater (when things don't go right!), .... Gee, kinda sounds like a country song!

  8. #8
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default 3rd individual question

    The shower trap is just outside the lower left corner of the picture. Can I cut that line, install a T, and vent it up the wall, and tie into the cast iron main vent line in the attic?

    Do I have to? I thought that I read that a 2" drain line could be 5' from the main drain according to one of the codes, and not be vented. (I told you, I don't know too much!!!)

    If I do need to cut in a vent, can it be 1.5" pvc for the shower 2" drain? I suppose it would be between the shower trap and currently dry-fit wye. Would I use a 2" X 1.5" T for the correct fitting. It would have to run horizontally for about 1.5', to the open wall cavity seen in the picture.
    Last edited by jrseaberg; 12-26-2006 at 07:13 AM.
    Jim Seaberg
    Decatur, IL

    Old home lover, old home hater (when things don't go right!), .... Gee, kinda sounds like a country song!

  9. #9
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default Thanks, Scott

    (From Scott) "Here are my suggestions, not being able to see the whole system. Where your 2" branch line is now, move it back a joist bay closer to where you sliced into the cast iron. Where your 2" branch for you shower/ vanity is currently, use this area to configure a vent. But you won't be able to use the wye in it's current configuration because it lying on it's side."


    Scott, I don't think I have room to run a fitting with a 2" line, unless it would be a 3X2 T with the 2" coming off to the side, into the next joist bay.

    I gather from your comment about the wye, that fitting should be a T instead?
    Jim Seaberg
    Decatur, IL

    Old home lover, old home hater (when things don't go right!), .... Gee, kinda sounds like a country song!

  10. #10
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default Joists

    btw...

    All joists will be sistered w/ 2x8, from support to support, to renew structural integrity. (Orig. Joists are 2X10 full dimension).
    Jim Seaberg
    Decatur, IL

    Old home lover, old home hater (when things don't go right!), .... Gee, kinda sounds like a country song!

  11. #11

    Default

    In the beginnings of my plumbing career I had an inspector to suggest that I remove the 90 ell and replace it with a sanitary tee with a clean out plug in a very similar situation. It worked for me and I got rid of too much height.

  12. #12
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default sketch

    Thanks for the idea!

    Here is a rough sketch of my understanding to this point.... I think......

    Would this work for the vents?
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    Jim Seaberg
    Decatur, IL

    Old home lover, old home hater (when things don't go right!), .... Gee, kinda sounds like a country song!

  13. #13

    Default

    It appears to me that the 45 going into the toilet branch is backwards/against the flow. That wye is installed backwards.

  14. #14
    DIY Member jrseaberg's Avatar
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    Default wye...

    I was thinking that the shower drain would tie into the toilet branch using a 3X3X2 T, not a wye. That would give me the needed clearance to miss the joist with the 2" branch line. Is a wye required there?
    Jim Seaberg
    Decatur, IL

    Old home lover, old home hater (when things don't go right!), .... Gee, kinda sounds like a country song!

  15. #15

    Default

    Some codes are very strict about using tees, others don't care. For me, if there is little question about worrying about cleaning it out I would use either, codes permiting. If it's within a few feet of the drain I wouldn't worry about it. Pretty much, any clog that appeared in the 3" line would be washed by the toilet flushing....but you definitely do not want a wye or 45 pointed against the direction of flow, especially of a flushing toilet.

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