Unless this house is in Antarctica or your basement is 10,000 square feet the basement zone is going to short-cycle if using low-mass radataion like SlantFin type fin-tube baseboard. 117KBTU/hr could easily be 3x the total heat load of your entire house, and very likely more than 10x the design-day heat load of an insulated basement. You'd be slightly better off going with ca$t iron convecting baseboard, but there's no way it would have sufficient thermal mass.
Basements have very different heat loss characterisics than first-floors, making it very diffucult (or impossible) to balance well. From a comfort point of view it's better to set it up to run as it's own zone. Not knowing the full configuration of the rest of the radiation & their respective loads it's difficult to guess just how short & frequent your burn cycles are. Measure them- if they're under 5 minutes/burn for temp-maintenance burns (as opposed to recovery from overnight setbacks or bumping up the thermostat) you'd gain some efficiency using a Beckett Heat Manager or Intellicon HW+ type economizer control, which should extend the burns somewhat while reducing the overall duty cycle. The smaller your zones, the more benefit you'll get out of it.
Another approach to dealing with micro-zones (micro, in terms of the boiler output) is to add mass- a tank of water either in series with the zone plumbing, or set up as the hydraulic separator in a primary/secondary for entire system, from which all zones draw their heat:
In this configuration the mass of the buffer participates in all calls for heat. There are various approaches to controlling it, but with the boiler slaved to the buffer as it's only zone controlled by an aquatstat on the tank, the hysteresis of the aquastat and volume of the water sets a minimum burn time for the boiler. (This is probably a bit more money, design, and more plumbing than you were going for though, eh?)
If you take the buffering hydraulic separator approach, there are buffers out there with internal heat exchangers for heating potable water, sometimes refered to as "reverse indirect" hot water heaters, which could add the domesting hot water heating load to the boiler, further improving it's as-used AFUE (and would have higher efficiency than a standalone hot water heater during the heating season, dropping to about the same efficiency as a standalone tank during the summer.) It'll be a bit over a grand for a ~23-28gallon reverse indirect, but A: It'll
never need replacing and B: With 117KBTU of heat going in it it'll deliver as much first-hour gallons as a 180KBTU tankless (at about the same efficiency as a tankless for 6-8 months out of the year. There are often subsidies availble for a reverse-indirect that wouldn't be available for a simple buffer tank, and in your situation it should be plumbed as the hydraulic separator as above. With a gas-fired boiler the tank temp should be set to ~140F, to avoid sub-130F return-water, which creates destructive condensing conditions in the boiler/flue. If there is enough radiation in all of the zones/room to deliver design-day heat at 140F, you could just leave it there, otherwise you might have to bump it up 5/10/15F for mid-winter operation. Most fin-tube can deliver heat at 140F, but you'd need ~50% more running length to deliver the same amount of heat that it would deliver with 160-170F water.
Setting up your basement zone with enough baseboard that it COULD be run at 140F on design day makes it more efficient, even without a buffer or buffering hydraulic separator, and should you ever replace the boiler with a condensing version you could do better than 90% efficiency, ALL of the time, whereas if you set it up to need 160F or 180F water the best you could do is mid-80s.
As-is where-is, your ~80% combustion efficient boiler is probably 2-3x oversized for your peak heat loads (5-10x oversized for the typical or average mid-winter load), short-cycling, and delivering ~65-70% net efficiency. With a economizer control you can probably hit the low mid-70s with it, and with well designed buffering system & controls or slightly higher. (Cood bee rong, offen am- need more info on your fuel use, zip code, & heating degree-day data to know for sure.)
Done a heat-loss calc yet?