When to install the threaded tub spout pipe?

[Mike57]

On a complete tub/shower remodel I'm stumped as to when and how to install the pipe for the threaded tub spout.

In the the wall I have a 1/2 brass drop ear elbow firmly attached to a block. The surround is 3 piece and the spout/control end requires at least 2" of vertical play to drop the end into the slots on the back wall. Total spout pipe length looks to be about 6 1/2" (2 1/2 behind the surround, 4" for the spout).

It seems like I should install the end and then the spout pipe but I get stuck on how to tighten the pipe in the elbow- and I'm reluctant to set the end without testing the connection. Sweat threaded copper adapter? Use brass nipple?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Reach4]

It seems like I should install the end and then the spout pipe but I get stuck on how to tighten the pipe in the elbow- and I'm reluctant to set the end without testing the connection. Sweat threaded copper adapter? Use brass nipple?

You could make a custom adapter from two threaded adapter on a piece of copper pipe.

A nipple should be brass in service, but usually you will buy a cheap galvanized nipple that is longer than you need. Let's say 6 inches. Tighten the spout by hand with no PTFE tape.

Measure the gap between the spout and the wall. Let's call that G. Then get a brass nipple that is 6-G long. Often you will have to order one. You can use the galvanized nipple just for measurement, or you can use it for a couple of weeks while your brass nipple arrives. If in doubt for length, you can order two... bracket your measurement.

The brass one will have two factors that you control. More tape makes the spout stick out farther. Tighter torque makes the spout sit closer to the wall. Control those to get the distance just right, which is zero gap but tight enough to not leak, and be oriented the right way.

I shortened a brass nipple a tad using a 1/2 NPT thread die to let me perfect the threads, but not for my tub spout. My tub spout is a Delta, and I only had to get the length within about a 1 inch range. If your spout does not have any adjustment itself, you have to do more work.

 

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[Mike57]

You could make a custom adapter from two threaded adapter on a piece of copper pipe.

A nipple should be brass in service, but usually you will buy a cheap galvanized nipple that is longer than you need. Let's say 6 inches. Tighten the spout by hand with no PTFE tape.

Measure the gap between the spout and the wall. Let's call that G. Then get a brass nipple that is 6-G long. Often you will have to order one. You can use the galvanized nipple just for measurement, or you can use it for a couple of weeks while your brass nipple arrives. If in doubt for length, you can order two... bracket your measurement.

The brass one will have two factors that you control. More tape makes the spout stick out farther. Tighter torque makes the spout sit closer to the wall. Control those to get the distance just right, which is zero gap but tight enough to not leak, and be oriented the right way.

I shortened a brass nipple a tad using a 1/2 NPT thread die to let me perfect the threads, but not for my tub spout. My tub spout is a Delta, and I only had to get the length within about a 1 inch range. If your spout does not have any adjustment itself, you have to do more work.

Thanks. Do I do this before or after the surround is up? I can't get the surround over anything that sticks out more than the control with is about an 1".

 

[Reach4]

Thanks. Do I do this before or after the surround is up? I can't get the surround over anything that sticks out more than the control with is about an 1".

You will screw the galvanized nipple in after the surround is up, but you will need a way go get a clearance hole in the surround. Is that hole drilled in advance, or after the surround is place, using landmark measurements you took before? Could be either. You don't want the drop ear elbow damaged by the drilling. You want the spout to cover the hole.

 

[Mike57]

You will screw the galvanized nipple in after the surround is up, but you will need a way go get a clearance hole in the surround. Is that hole drilled in advance, or after the surround is place, using landmark measurements you took before? Could be either. You don't want the drop ear elbow damaged by the drilling. You want the spout to cover the hole.

The hole is pre-drilled, dry fit looks good.

 

[Terry]

A removable nipple.
I install the nipple after the panel goes up.

C3 for iron pipe nipple installation. Except I always use brass so that I don't get rust every time I turn on the faucet.