Well water occasionally shuts off for a few seconds

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DYI13

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Great information and video, thank you all very much. Never heard of a csv, so definitely learned a lot.

We’re going to order the csv and replace all of my corroded pipes. A few last questions:

* Since we are doing this anyway, should we return the the 30/50 switch a get a 40/60 switch? I guess I am afraid the old pressure tank might be used to 30/50 and the extra pressure might pop the diaphragm. Or maybe it won’t make much difference with the csv set at 55 and I should stick with the tried and true.

* teflon tape or sealing paste for the connections? I know to make them super tight.

* Any other tips?

Thanks!
 

Sarg

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The switches are the same ..... just set at different ranges at the factory. There's a multitude of videos explaining how to raise your range. From experience I suggest you do not alter the "smaller" screw and spring which is for changing the ceiling of your range. I bought another new switch when I got the 20 psi differential screwed up and could not get the adjustment back. Again ... study the videos.

I had issues getting the stainless steel fittings to seal ( CSV ) because as Valveman explained the stainless threads do not flex like brass ... so I learned to use 4 or 5 wraps of the teflon tape plus some dope to get a proper seal.

I stayed with the 30/50 and we are satisfied with the run pressure of about 45 psi. ( We have polybutylene piping so we prefer the lower operating pressures )

And finally ... I made the decision to replace everything while I had it all apart. The components have a life expectancy and I did not want to "fix" crap for the next year. All new fittings, new gauge and switch, new pressure tank, new water heater and new well pump. Today I'm glad I did. Your current pressure tank is at least 13 years in service with a potential of being much older and I would suggest it's probably due for replacement ...... Now is the time just for peace of mind. ( I could not tell my old tank had a rupture until I took it out and shook it ..... finding water sloshing around above the bladder. )

I realize I've made the same post about three times on this thread ... learning from the experiences of others seems to be the best way.
 
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DYI13

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OK, finally the job is done. The old pressure gauge, switch, and elbow connected to the pressure tank were so full of gunk it's a wonder we got any water at all. We wound up replacing the elbow on the pressure tank with brass and hooked it back up. A few questions about the final installation:

* Because we originally were using a 10" nipple to the pressure tank, we did not have the clearance to use a taller nipple to the switch. And because we didn't have the horizontal clearance to put the cycle stop valve over to the right more, we couldn't put the switch in its usual spot, to the right of the tank inlet. So we put it to the left of the inlet with a very short nipple, which I know is not proper, but everything is working correctly to the best of my knowledge.

* Now that we replaced the 10" nipple to the tank with a 13" so we could make the proper horizontal connections without additional repiping, we do have room to either:
--raise up the pressure switch with a taller nipple to get it out of the pressure tank to house water line, or
--maybe switch the positions of the pressure gauge and switch, which I believe if we use a 3" nipple, will allow us to turn the switch box without the cycle stop valve getting in the way.

Or should we leave our new installation alone?

Thank you all so much for your help.
 

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