Well pump and contactor question

[Fernest0]

Hello there, hopefully this is posted in the correct forum, of not please place it where it should be.

My question is, I want to add a water storage tank to my well system. I have a new potable water tank in my garage. So what I want to do is have my well pump pump the water into the tank instead of directly to my house. I have a float switch that will be mounted in the tank. When it’s up it’ll shut the pump off, down pump comes on. Now I bought this house in October, I have no idea what size pump is in the well(about 210’ deep I’ve been told). I know the pump runs on 220v.

So the float switch “SAYS” it can be used for 110 and 220. Well I’d rather not take the chance since the wires for the pump are #8 and the switch is #14. So I thought what about a contractor. So I got one, only problem is I can’t figure out for the life of me how to wire it up. Obviously the power goes in one side and the load in the other. Now there’s 2 pins on each side which should be for the switch, but I can’t figure out how to hook it up to work.

Here’s some pictures, hopefully someone can give me some insite.

 

[Reach4]

I think this presuming you run 3 wires + ground from the fuse panel. Alternatively, you could use a different 120 V circuit to power the coil.

The 2 wires of the float switch may be different than the colors I drew. Use an ohmmeter to figure out the right two to use.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

Wiring above is correct.

You have a standard double pole single throw contactor. The ratings you mention is the contact rating. Both sides is the connection for the 120v AC to power the coil. Each side have two blades each so you can daisy chaining to another contactor or capacitor, etc.

On the ends one is for your line power and the other is for the load. You can use either the blade connections or the screw connection. The multi blade connections just makes it easy if you need more to chain off these contacts.

 

[Jadnashua]

Will you have a pump on that storage tank? If not, how do you intend to use it? The more common situation is to use a bladder-type tank. That would not need any float switch.

A storage tank could be used for fire fighters, or some gravity fed locations, but, without a pump, may not be all that useful otherwise.

 

[Fernest0]

Thank you for the reply! I will try that wiring after work. Would the neutral wire from the pump would also connect onto the contactor where the neutral from the breaker box goes to the coil terminal?

Yes I will have a pump “on” the tank in the house. My well has a low flow rate and ran dry not too long after I bought the house so the storage tank was an option just in case something happened.

The well pump will fill the tank, and the float switch will tell it to shut off whenever it’s full. Then I will have a booster pump and pressure tank coming out of the bottom of the tank going through a whole house filter and then to the house plumbing and that will be ran off the pressure switch.

 

[Jadnashua]

Sounds like a solid plan.

You may also want a low limit switch in that tank so that the pump in the house doesn't try to pump a dry tank.

 

[Reach4]

Yes I will have a pump “on” the tank in the house. My well has a low flow rate and ran dry not too long after I bought the house so the storage tank was an option just in case something happened.

You probably want to use a monitor designed to detect the loss of water, and then to shut down pumping for an interval. It does this by monitoring the power. Cycle Sensor is one such device. http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/prod_sensor.html Pumptec and Pumpsaver Plus are others.

When you get the submersible pump replaced, you would want a 1/2 HP 7 gpm pump, I think, for filling the cistern. Actually a 1/3 HP 5 gpm pump would be good, but they are less common.