Water Hammer?

[Sixdays]

Valveman,

I'd have to pull the pump to get the specific information that you need. The pump is "probably" a 1 HP as it does approximately 25-30 gpm ............ I suppose I could disconnect the inlet to the tank, restrict the flow and see what flow rate the pump produces at a given pressure or it may be easier just to pull the pump.

Is there a range for a particular CSV or are they tailor made?

The static water level is going to be 15'

Thanks,
TS

 

[Valveman]

That is enough info to work with. Earlier you said a 30/50 pressure switch. So either one of the CSV1-40 valves, if it can be installed outside, or where a small leak won't be noticed. Or use a CSV1Z if you need to install inside a building or where a small leak is not acceptable.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Ballvalve]

You might isolate the tank and slowly shut off the pumps output [momentarily] with a valve and a pressure gauge reading say 0-300 just to check the max pressure it will do. I would try the throttle back to 1 gpm at shut off with a valve before installing the CSV just to make sure that does the job of killing the hammer.

But it sounds llike you dont have an easy place to install a valve before the tank and after the gauge. You could hold the contacts shut on the pressure switch until the gauge went to say 85, and then let it shut off and see of THAT reduces the hammer. that should reduce the flow rate considerably. Might want to shut off the flow to the house when doing that.

Test your running amps and you should get real close to the motor HP quickly.

 

[Sixdays]

Just a follow up on my previous posts.

I was given a "cycle cop" valve from my pump supplier and installed it near the well head. This seemed to do the trick (eliminated the water hammer)................. once it was adjusted. I suppose this valve closes as you approach the pre-set pressure thus reducing the pump flow rate just before the pressure switch shuts the pump off. One obvioius draw back to this solution is that any adjustments / changes to the pressure switch settings will cause problems with this type of valve............

Anyway, the guys problem is solved ........

Thanks for everyone's help

 

[Waterwelldude]

Did you ever find out what caused the trouble in the first place?

 

[Ballvalve]

Too fast flow-volume at shut off.

 

[Valveman]

Just a follow up on my previous posts.

One obvioius draw back to this solution is that any adjustments / changes to the pressure switch settings will cause problems with this type of valve............

Anyway, the guys problem is solved ........

Thanks for everyone's help

It doesn't cause any problems. You just have to adjust the CSV to work with the pressure switch, or the switch to work with the CSV. This actually gives you a way to adjust the run time, regardless of the size of pressure tank. You are on the right track. Just takes a little while to realize what the CSV is really doing.

 

[Waterwelldude]

Never mind my post. I put it on the worng thread...
Asked the right question, just worng thread.



Travis

 

[Valveman]

Check valves slamming shut when pumps turn off while pumping high volume has always been a problem. This is what causes the check valves to wear and start sticking. Then you get the water hammer when the check valve is dragging and the water has to reverse before the check will close.

A CSV reduces the flow to 1 GPM before the pump shuts off. This eliminates wear on the check valve, so you will never have the problem to start with. Or the CSV can eliminate water hammer after the check valve is damaged, by not letting it slam from the full open position.

 

[Masterpumpman]

Valveman said it simple and clear. Most handbooks are out dated!