Want to get rid of this saddle valve. Best option?

[Sdsad123]

Got this saddle valve thats a few inches under the cold water shutoff for the sink. It's 1/4" copper that I'd like to replace too if its not super hard...it goes from where you see, up a few inches, down into the floor, then across the kitchen, then up and into the wall and goes into the fridge.

I'm thinking I'll just cut out the saddle valve, put in a shark bite 3/4" to 3/4" shutoff valve with a 1/4" outlet and add the new line and call it a day.


My only question is how do I put the new, poly line where the old copper line is? Do I tie the new line to the old line and drag it into its place? Because parts of the area where it goes are super hard to access. My other question is, is it okay to have a shutoff (refrigerator line) and then another shutoff (cold water for faucet)?

 

[Terry]

Adding a push connect there would work. It looks to be 1/2" copper there, 5/8" OD
Could be 3/4", 7/8" OD

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sdsad123]

Adding a push connect there would work. It looks to be 1/2" copper there, 5/8" OD

Thank you, I do believe you're correct! Saved me a trip and some money. So two shutoffs in a row is okay? Also, would you bother replacing the line? I really think it may be clogged as its 30+ years old and we have hard water (and our refrigerators water has slowed to a crawl). Thanks again.

 

[Terry]

Two shutoff is fine. Plus, it's just an icemaker line.
I like to put a shutoff with hammer arrestor behind the refrigerator. When I do that, it's a 1/2" line to the icemaker box.
Anytime you can replace old pipe it's a good idea.

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, the piercing valve on that saddle valve may never close off the water again being that old, so a new valve is a good idea. Make sure to clean off the pipe well before you use the Sharkbite and debur the ends so you don't damage the O-rings.

 

[Sdsad123]

FWIW, the piercing valve on that saddle valve may never close off the water again being that old, so a new valve is a good idea. Make sure to clean off the pipe well before you use the Sharkbite and debur the ends so you don't damage the O-rings.

The whole point was for me to remove the saddle valve haha I definitely don't want to use it again! I've heard they're no good. Would you use a sharkbite or compression valve? Honestly if there was a 1/2" shutoff with a 3/8 + 1/4 tee that would allow me to just have one valve, though I'd have to shorten the pipe to below where the saddle valve is.

 

[Terry]

They do make shutoffs with both the 3/8" and the 1/4" comp outputs.
I prefer compression over Sharkbite or push fittings.

 

[Reach4]

Replacing the saddle valve with another saddle valve is an option to my thinking. It's not the prestige choice, but it works. Make sure the needle matches the existing hole. The way you do that is to fully extend the needle before tightening the clamp.

 

[Sdsad123]

They do make shutoffs with both the 3/8" and the 1/4" comp outputs.
I prefer compression over Sharkbite or push fittings.

Nice, I might do this if I can find one! Thanks a lot. I dont love having to take the pipe down to below the saddle valve, but I guess I can always extend it later if its an issue (its not).

 

[Jadnashua]

If you can solder, fittings are cheaper and likely more robust than Sharkbite fittings, but the Sharkbites do work. Depends on your skill level. A nice ball valve will likely work for longer than you want, but also be easier to replace if it ever does fail.

 

[Reach4]

If you can solder, fittings are cheaper and likely more robust than Sharkbite fittings, but the Sharkbites do work. Depends on your skill level. A nice ball valve will likely work for longer than you want, but also be easier to replace if it ever does fail.

A ball valve would be easier to replace, or do you mean that a Sharkbite slip ball valve would be easier to replace than a non-Sharkbite ball valve?

 

[Jeff H Young]

I'd get rid of saddle valve I don't use them. Put a tee in and add a shutoff at tee that way you can have time to replace 1/4 inch line I'd probably put a 1/2 inch ball valve and then reduce for the 1/4 inch line. Could be clogged anywhere I wouldn't run that poly fridge line through attic, I don't think that has same rating as PEX but you might check.