I have a five valve irrigation system. Four of the five work perfectly. One, when it "turns on" (in sequence, it is the third zone of the five) knocks/hammers unstoppingly until I shut off the zone. Since the system is at least 15 years old, I suspect that particular valve is the problem. I can easily enough replace either the solenoid or the diaphragm (or both). Before I do that --a couple questions --(1) Which of the two is more likely, so I can do that one first? (2) Will replacing those two (one at a time) solve the problem? (3) Or am I on the completely wrong track? (4) A friend (with no particular expertise) thinks I may have a complete break somewhere in the zone causing the problem --maybe?
Valve hammering
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WorthFlorida
Clinical Trail 5th session completed 4/24/24.
There is no way can a broken pipe cause this. If you did there be no water coming out of the sprinklers.
The diaphragm inside the valve can get stiff or even debris is inside of it. Rebuilt kits are usually available at hardware stores, HD, Lowes or irrigation suppliers. You'll need to know your brand model.
At the valve you can turn the solenoid about a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. This will open the valve (assuming city water). Let it run a little then turn the solenoid to tighten it and the water should stop. If it flutters it's a good indication it is the diaphragm. You may need a pair of channel locks to turn the solenoid CC wise, only hand tighten it thereafter. If you are using a pump, activate another zone to turn on the pump, then loosen the solenoid. Do not remove the solenoid with water pressure behind the valve (city water) even if the zone is off unless you have a master valve before going to the zone valves.
I doubt it is the solenoid. Either they are good, opened or shorted. Put an ohm meter on it at the controller with the zone wire removed. The reading should be in the 40 ohm range (20-60 ohms is the full range). When the solenoid operates it barely moves any.
A quick test is swap your zone 3 with another zone at the controller. If the problem stays with the hammer issue zone, then it is the valve causing it.
The diaphragm inside the valve can get stiff or even debris is inside of it. Rebuilt kits are usually available at hardware stores, HD, Lowes or irrigation suppliers. You'll need to know your brand model.
At the valve you can turn the solenoid about a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. This will open the valve (assuming city water). Let it run a little then turn the solenoid to tighten it and the water should stop. If it flutters it's a good indication it is the diaphragm. You may need a pair of channel locks to turn the solenoid CC wise, only hand tighten it thereafter. If you are using a pump, activate another zone to turn on the pump, then loosen the solenoid. Do not remove the solenoid with water pressure behind the valve (city water) even if the zone is off unless you have a master valve before going to the zone valves.
I doubt it is the solenoid. Either they are good, opened or shorted. Put an ohm meter on it at the controller with the zone wire removed. The reading should be in the 40 ohm range (20-60 ohms is the full range). When the solenoid operates it barely moves any.
A quick test is swap your zone 3 with another zone at the controller. If the problem stays with the hammer issue zone, then it is the valve causing it.
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