Urinal rough in

[Kordts]

I was just hired to fix a urinal rough at a local funeral home. It's actually about a block and a half from my house. The G.C. has a local hack plumber who roughed in the threads about 2" past the studwal. The funeral director hired me to fix the rough, and it's been at least 6 years since I roughed in a urinal. The cutsheets on the websites aren't a help. Where do I rough the male adapter at? Is the face flush with the stud wall? Or flush with the finished wall? Or where?

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

I was just hired to fix a urinal rough at a local funeral home. It's actually about a block and a half from my house. The G.C. has a local hack plumber who roughed in the threads about 2" past the studwal. The funeral director hired me to fix the rough, and it's been at least 6 years since I roughed in a urinal. The cutsheets on the websites aren't a help. Where do I rough the male adapter at? Is the face flush with the stud wall? Or flush with the finished wall? Or where?

You're gonna need the MFG specs.
Last one I did was about 5 years ago (a Toto...Terry would be proud)...I don't think they're universal, but maybe I'm wrong.
Also...as I'm sure you know...make sure his 3/4" stub was offset within the tolerances for the Royal/sloan from center and height...can be a serious pain if not.
Throw up the name of the urinal...lets see if we can find it online...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Peanut9199]

If your talking about the outlet for the urinal, it would be flush with the finish wall. Urinals mostly use 2" female threads, so you need a 2" male adapter.

Specs not that great but will give you an idea.
When your fixing it and you hear a strange russling noise behind you just forget about it (they can't really hurt you).

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

If your talking about the outlet for the urinal, it would be flush with the finish wall. Urinals mostly use 2" female threads, so you need a 2" male adapter.

Specs not that great but will give you an idea.
When your fixing it and you hear a strange russling noise behind you just forget about it (they can't really hurt you).

I haven't done one of those models...when I said "I don't think they're universal" I was referring to the dimensions from one name/model to the next, though I'm not sure...I don't do them often, as I do mostly residential.
Though that diagram is excellent...leaves no questions of dimensions, heights or distances.
As for the rustling noises...I'd just up my dose of meds.

 

[Markts30]

We rough ours in intentionally long then replace the nipple later with one that is flush with finished wall... (we use mostly cast iron and galv nipples...)
The critical part is the water stubout - offset can depend on the valve but is usually between 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 inches...(we usually shoot for 5" dead on)

 

[Kordts]

Usually I would rough in a female opening and use a nipple, but this is only a
2" x 4" studwall. I seem to recall that the threads were usually flush with the finished wall.

 

[hj]

urinal

The only male urinal connectors are PVC/ABS. Unless the fitting is well back in the wall you aren't going to be able to do it. What usually happens, after the inspection, is that the sanitary drainage tee is replaced with a test/cleanout tee which does not have the sweep which makes it much shorter so a standard nipple will work.

 

[Kordts]

I was at my supply house today and found pvc urinal spuds. One is a spigot and the the other is a hub. I will make one of them work.

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

The only male urinal connectors are PVC/ABS. Unless the fitting is well back in the wall you aren't going to be able to do it. What usually happens, after the inspection, is that the sanitary drainage tee is replaced with a test/cleanout tee which does not have the sweep which makes it much shorter so a standard nipple will work.

I've only done commercial urinals on batteries, here we can't use any plastic on drainage in commercial...code calls for us to use lead/oakum from the urinal outlet to the next drain connection or "washdown"...they can be a pain in da keyster.

 

[Plumb or Die]

I always like to have a chunk of sched 80 2" PVC on hand with a fairly loose running thread on it kicking around the truck. That way you can cut a super close nipple out of it for urinals. Just use lots of dope and teflon. It's tricky to make the thread without busting the pipe, but if you open the dies wide and got over the threads 3 or 4 times, tightening the dies up a little bit each time, it's totally doable. Sometimes even a close steel nipple is too long with the brass threads of the spud. This has been a little trick in my arsenal for 20 years.