Urinal outlet flange question

[SoreThumbs]

Can some describe the proper way a urinal flange in installed. Is it like a toilet flange, where the flange is secured tightly to the wall with screws? Or does the flange "float" and is only tightened to the urinal fixture itself? Any help, tricks, or best practices with this would be greatly apricated!

 

[John Gayewski]

The flange is attached to the pipe. It isn't fastened to the wall.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[SoreThumbs]

Thanks John! How should the pipe be secured to framing in this situation? Rock solid, or with a little movement so the urinal can pull and move the flange/seal closer when the nuts are tightened to the flange bolts?

 

[Jeff H Young]

rock solid but I use the slight give idea to my advantage on some stuff. Ive had to custom cut nipples and even braze nipples on to flanges with horrible rough ins and of cource the old remove santee and use a clean out for some rat outfits I worked for.
roughed in deep in the wall and strapped solid is favorite way though

 

[John Gayewski]

The last piece of pipe you put in will need to be cut very precisely. That will leave the back of the flange up against the finished wall. Once you have that pretty exact then the seal will be made with the gasket. The gasket will compress as you tighten the urinal to the flange. Generally the flange is brass, threaded female, and supplied with the urinal. Also supplied with the urinal should be the gasket. You won't need any movement from the pipe. There might be some deflection depending on how well your flange nipple is cut. But generally when you screw the flange up against the wall it is not easily moved by the end of the process.

 

[SoreThumbs]

The urinal is Zurn and the supplied flange is stiff black plastic (nylon?) material, yes with female threads (2" IPS I think). The flange bolts are odd. They're just threaded rod (studs?) with no head, so not a bolt at all. They thread into tapped holes in the flange, and acorn nuts are suppled to secure the urinal to studs/flange.

How should the male threads on the pipe be placed in relation to the finished wall before I start screwing on the flange? flush or recessed, if recessed how far?

Z5708 - "Nano Pint" Urinal System

Nano Pint 0.125 gpf ultra low consumption urinal system provides 87% water consumption savings over traditional 1.0 gpf urinal systems.

www.zurn.com

https://www.zurn.com/Media-Library/web_documents/pdfs/specsheets/Z5708-U

 

[John Gayewski]

What I usually do for a urinal is, thread a sched. 80 nipple into the flange and thread it tight and sealed with tape and dope. Once it's threaded onto the flange you can get a clear and accurate measurement from the hub in the wall to the back of the flange. This all assumes your using pvc or abs. Then you cut your length and glue it in tight to the wall. If you wanted to could leave the nipple threaded in where you know there's another half turn in it. Then glue it and tighten it the last half turn to suck it up to the wall, after the glue is 100 percent cured. Generally I just cut it and glue it and press really hard until the glue drys and it's tight to the wall.

Those studs that came with your urinal are fine you just may want to drill some holes in the finished wall right where they go so they can penetrate the surface while you tighten the acorn caps.

 

[John Gayewski]

I might trash the plastic flange and get a brass one. But that would be a judgment call. Seems like the ears would be too flexible to me, but maybe not.

 

[SoreThumbs]

What I usually do for a urinal is, thread a sched. 80 nipple into the flange and thread it tight and sealed with tape and dope. Once it's threaded onto the flange you can get a clear and accurate measurement from the hub in the wall to the back of the flange. This all assumes your using pvc or abs. Then you cut your length and glue it in tight to the wall. If you wanted to could leave the nipple threaded in where you know there's another half turn in it. Then glue it and tighten it the last half turn to suck it up to the wall, after the glue is 100 percent cured. Generally I just cut it and glue it and press really hard until the glue drys and it's tight to the wall.

Those studs that came with your urinal are fine you just may want to drill some holes in the finished wall right where they go so they can penetrate the surface while you tighten the acorn caps.

Exactly what I needed, in fact you answered my next question already, how to teflon tape the threads. I've got way more confidence in the install now, thanks a million