accentricitees
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I'm working with someone who has taken on every aspect of re-modeling my son's bathroom. We were nearly finished but have to undo a few things and start again. I need advice to make sure this time we cover all our bases.
The floor under the tub that was removed is the concrete foundation of my house. After taking out the tub, he extended the drain, cutting into the concrete about 3 inches and tiled directly over the concrete with no pan installed, pitching the tiles so that the water would ideally flow to the drain area.
It appears from pictures of the process that the extension of the drain wasn't positioned correctly. It slants upward to connect to the original bathtub drain hole. I've been told he needs to cut deeper into the concrete and make sure the extension is slanted downward 1/8 of an inch.
We're removing the tiles tomorrow to fix the drain and lay the shower liner which we’ll make into a pan. I don't want to remove the bottom row of 16x16 slate tiles on the shower wall so I think we will have to dig the entire floor 3 or 4 inches to be able to lay the liner and create the lip of the pan around the 3 shower walls. I've been told to create a 12" lip along the wall, but I really don't want to waste those tiles and figured 3 -4" would be good enough.
Some people have said to just lay the tile with no liner. Most people say you have to use a liner or else the foundation gets soft from water leaking through the tile and/or water can seep into the bedrooms. I was thinking we could avoid using the pan and digging up the concrete if we could get a hold of some sort of concrete sealer or marine cement to put on top of the existing cement but the plumbing supply store I went to today didn’t know anything about it.
Also, when we raised the water controls from bathtub height to shower height and installed the new handle, the hot and cold water is reversed. I saw on one post that may be due to the cartridge being in backward. I'm not sure if that's the case here or if it was like that when it was a tub.
Please advise asap... we're starting the un-do/re-do first thing in the morning.
Thanks!!!
The floor under the tub that was removed is the concrete foundation of my house. After taking out the tub, he extended the drain, cutting into the concrete about 3 inches and tiled directly over the concrete with no pan installed, pitching the tiles so that the water would ideally flow to the drain area.
It appears from pictures of the process that the extension of the drain wasn't positioned correctly. It slants upward to connect to the original bathtub drain hole. I've been told he needs to cut deeper into the concrete and make sure the extension is slanted downward 1/8 of an inch.
We're removing the tiles tomorrow to fix the drain and lay the shower liner which we’ll make into a pan. I don't want to remove the bottom row of 16x16 slate tiles on the shower wall so I think we will have to dig the entire floor 3 or 4 inches to be able to lay the liner and create the lip of the pan around the 3 shower walls. I've been told to create a 12" lip along the wall, but I really don't want to waste those tiles and figured 3 -4" would be good enough.
Some people have said to just lay the tile with no liner. Most people say you have to use a liner or else the foundation gets soft from water leaking through the tile and/or water can seep into the bedrooms. I was thinking we could avoid using the pan and digging up the concrete if we could get a hold of some sort of concrete sealer or marine cement to put on top of the existing cement but the plumbing supply store I went to today didn’t know anything about it.
Also, when we raised the water controls from bathtub height to shower height and installed the new handle, the hot and cold water is reversed. I saw on one post that may be due to the cartridge being in backward. I'm not sure if that's the case here or if it was like that when it was a tub.
Please advise asap... we're starting the un-do/re-do first thing in the morning.
Thanks!!!