Upsizing water pipes to 1" after the 1/2" meter and galvanized main line from street in old house

[AJRiddle]

I am doing a complete bathroom remodel and figured I might as well get rid of all the old galvanized plumbing and shoddy work done by previous owners/handymen in my crawlspace at the same time.

I have only a 1/2" galvanized pipe coming in from the street, it goes into my crawlspace where the meter is in approximately the middle of it. After the meter is a bunch of really bad plumbing from random sections of old galvanized to terribly kinked copper to PEX with sharkbite etc. I want to rip everything after the meter out (except for the newer PEX stuff going to my upstairs bath).

My question - are there any negatives or reasons not to go from my 1/2" meter to 1" PEX-A? I have looked at the UPC code and table 610.4 says I would be in the 3/4" meter with 1" building supply and branches category. My house is 24.5 fixture units and my static PSI reading is 60 psi. Currently the distance to the farthest fixture is only about 30 feet.

Also, what fittings should I use to go from the 1/2" meter to 1" PEX-A?

 

[Terry]

1" for sure. Reduced friction loss helps a lot with the increase in size.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sylvan]

I never have installed any main less then 1" Copper (type L) above ground

 

[wwhitney]

My question - are there any negatives or reasons not to go from my 1/2" meter to 1" PEX-A?

For cold water, no.

Also, what fittings should I use to go from the 1/2" meter to 1" PEX-A?

The 1/2" meter has a meter nipple on it that is 1/2" MIP at the end? I would suggest going upstream you use 1" PEX-A -- 1" ball valve -- reduce to 1/2" FIP -- 1/2" meter nipple.

So you could get a F1960 x 1" MIP ball valve and just use a 1/2" x 1" brass bell reducer to connect to the 1/2" MIP meter nipple. Or a F1960 x 1" FIP ball valve, with a 1/2" x 1" bushing in it to receive the 1/2" MIP meter nipple.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jeff H Young]

Put a 1 x1/2 " bell reducer on its just a female x female coupling