Unusual Well and Pitless Adapter

[NotACarpenter]

Went to pull a well this morning and found a setup I have not encountered before, we are unsure how to hook on to the pitless to pull the drop pipe.

From what I've researched, it appears to be a "crow's foot" (?) adapter with a release lever opposite of the pitless. Should there be a cable or rope attached to that to release it? Is that lever what holds pressure on the pitless to hold it in place?

Should I loosen what appears to be a set screw on the galvanized bar just under the well cap?

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Valveman]

Sorry haven't seen one like that. Maybe VA will chime in. I'll bet he has seen one of those.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I am not familiar with your pitless. I would look up "food grade penetrating oil".

I would guess that the pipe down to the pitless carries the weight, and the screw with the nut operates the leg. I am not a pro. It's good that you put a photo there. Nice photos.

I am confident that the lever provides the pressure to keep the o-ring up against whatever it presses against, which may be the side of the casing. My Merrill SMCK pitless does that, and another seal seals against the outside of the casing.

Since there is only one finger, you would not call it a crow's foot.

 

[NotACarpenter]

I am not familiar with your pitless. I would look up "food grade penetrating oil".

I would guess that the pipe down to the pitless carries the weight, and the screw with the nut operates the leg. I am not a pro. It's good that you put a photo there. Nice photos.

I am confident that the lever provides the pressure to keep the o-ring up against whatever it presses against, which may be the side of the casing. My Merrill SMCK pitless does that, and another seal seals against the outside of the casing.

Since there is only one finger, you would not call it a crow's foot.

After calling about a dozen older/retired well drillers and pump setters in my area, as well as contacting all of our product suppliers, we have determined that it is an old style commercial well setup, probably circa the 1950s or 60s. The "galvanized tee handle looking thing" is what supports the weight of the entire system, as opposed to hanging on the pitless.

The old man who knew about this type of system recommended we dig down around the casing to below the pitless, then drill holes, attach a chain to support it, then cut it completely free and replace it with a standard pitless adapter and weld a new piece of casing coming up out of the ground.

I will probably be embarking on this task next week and will be sure to share this unique experience on here for everyone's collective knowledge!

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

The old man who knew about this type of system recommended we dig down around the casing to below the pitless, then drill holes, attach a chain to support it, then cut it completely free and replace it with a standard pitless adapter and weld a new piece of casing coming up out of the ground.

How big is your casing?

If you weld on an assembly with a trapezoidal pitless, that will be at least a 5 inch casing. That was offered as an option for my 4-inch casing when I got my pit demolished. Instead I opted for the clearway type pitless.

After doing well work is a good time for well and plumbing sanitizing. Warm weather makes that better too. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing writeup.

 

[VAWellDriller]

Sorry haven't seen one like that. Maybe VA will chime in. I'll bet he has seen one of those.

Sorry that one is new to me...I would guess Reach is right and the rod/nut pushes a cam which holds it over to the side of the casing. It all looks to be in good shape, and I would think if you found anyone that really knew what they were doing they would not be recommending to dig it up. That's usually the last option when things are rusty/corroded past function. I would ABSOLUTELY HOOK ONTO IT SECURLY before messing with it...but I wouldn't be scared to try letting off on then nut and rod and see what happens. Just know going into it you may have to dig it up...but you may save yourself a lot of work.

 

[Reach4]

Like mine, it is important to mark the orientation before loosening. Mine is marked with a hacksaw kerf in the top of the casing on both sides of one hang-arm. That lets the opening line up left-right.

When you pull a pitless, it is considered best to replace the o-ring. You might have an o-ring kit standing by.

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/leaky-pitless-adapter.90975/ including #11.

 

[MontanaPhil]

I may be able to help here. The unit pictured is a Sears Pitless Well Adaptor, part # 421.271530 if 6 inch casing. I have only seen two in 35 years as a pump guy. All weight is carried by upper crossarm thru a 1 inch job specific length section of pipe. The threaded rod with nut works with a cable you can't see within 1 inch pipe to push the adaptor tight over hole in casing. Tighten nut, lock in pitless, loosen nut, pitless releases. If crosspiece is intact, pump won't drop when you release pitless, however, I always support anything like this from the hoist before I do anything! Sears recommended using a chain wrapped around pipe and crossarm in such a way it cannot slip off due to slope up of crossarms. I have a copy of the original owners manual somewhere......The other piece of the pitless underground that your horizontal water pipe connects to was a strap-on fitting using a large U-bolt and o-ring seal. Sears manual suggested drilling 24 1/4 inch holes in a circle to make a knock-out hole, maybe they didn't have metal cutting hole saws that we use today.....regards, MontanaPhil