Toilet Water Hammer

[BobN]

In this 40 year old house, I've never had water hammer problems. Now I have a problem with one old Mansfield toilet. When the float rises to the top, water very slowly stops flowing. After the valve finally shuts, there is a one-second loud vibration. It seems to be coming from the pipes inside the wall, not from the tank or bowl. I added a small water hammer arrestor after the toilet manual shutoff and it didn't help or change this problem. No other fixtures in the house cause noise. The house has copper pipes (not PEX) and a submerged pump putting out 55PSI. There is also an expansion tank on the well output, so the pressure is relatively constant.

What are your thoughts on debugging and fixing this?

Thank you.

 

[BobN]

Follow-up: While the toilet was refilling, I reached under the nearby sink and felt the cold water pipe going to the faucet. Sure enough, when the tank just barely filled, I heard the one second of vibration and felt it strongly in the cold water pipe.

 

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[Jeff H Young]

I would have changed fill valves first . if I was throwing parts at it , you can service them too but Id replace it

 

[Eman85]

I had a similar problem with 1 toilet in the house. I raised the pressure on my PRV a few pounds and it quit. I'm on municipal water here. I also installed a Korky water valve in the toilet, it had a Fluidmaster FWIW.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I had a similar problem with 1 toilet in the house. I raised the pressure on my PRV a few pounds and it quit. I'm on municipal water here. I also installed a Korky water valve in the toilet, it had a Fluidmaster FWIW.

House has no PRV Id discount the raising of water pressure as being a fix for water hammer as being the most unlikely fix for water hammer maybey you need to repair the prv or replace it . If it fixed it why change fill valve?

 

[Eman85]

I should have been more clear. I had a PRV problem with pressure fluctuating. I replaced the PRV and after that I started having the water hammer with 1 toilet. I replaced the fill valve, which didn't fix the problem. I called the PRV company and they suggested raising the pressure a few pounds which I did and it stopped the hammer. One thing that probably wasn't helping tings were the CPVC pipes were not secured properly by previous plumbers. I've also since replumbed the whole house.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I should have been more clear. I had a PRV problem with pressure fluctuating. I replaced the PRV and after that I started having the water hammer with 1 toilet. I replaced the fill valve, which didn't fix the problem. I called the PRV company and they suggested raising the pressure a few pounds which I did and it stopped the hammer. One thing that probably wasn't helping tings were the CPVC pipes were not secured properly by previous plumbers. I've also since replumbed the whole house

oh your a differant guy differant problem maybe reppiping and strapping the pipes fixed it ? never heard of fixing water hammer by raising pressure, easy enough thing to try though

 

[Eman85]

What can I say, it worked for me. When the toilet shut off it would trigger the hammer and I traced it back to the pipes to the water heater which would really get to vibrating. Turning up the pressure was a no cost easy enough to try thing so it's what I did and the hammer stopped. I was planning a repipe anyway along with a water heater replacement.
I do think the new fill valve, the Korky, appeared to shut the water off more gently. Might have been just the Fluidmaster was old and had some lime deposits making the float and valve sticky.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Definately changing fill valves can stop a toilet from causing water hammer . I dont know why but sometimes a w/c fillvalve will slam shut, and since a repipe and your note that the pipes were loose . but in your case I cant say one way or another you already told us that raising the pressure at the regulator fixed the problem Ive never seen this but accept that is what you belive happened . Im not convinced but If I think about it Id concider monkeying with the pressure to help aleviate hammer including increaing pressure but not with high expectations.

 

[sanu66a]

I added a small water hammer arrestor after the toilet manual shutoff and it didn't help or change this problem. No other fixtures in the house cause noise. The house has copper pipes (not PEX) and a submerged pump putting out 55PSI. There is also an expansion tank on the well output, so the pressure is relatively constant.
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[Reach4]

Try partially closing the stop valve to work around the problem.

But changing the fill valve would make sense. Do you have a ballcock, or a more modern type?

Also, do you keep a plunger handy? If so, consider changing the toilet instead. Despite using less water, most newer toilets clog less than the old ones.

 

[John Gayewski]

This issue would likley be fixed from a new fill valve. This one seems to be wearing out and sputtering to a stop and causing vibration.

I could see a pressure increase stopping the sputtering of the fill valve, but that would likley be a temporary fix.

 

[GReynolds929]

Toilet water hammer refers to the phenomenon of loud banging or thumping noises occurring in the water pipes of a toilet after flushing. This noise is typically caused by the sudden stoppage of water flow in the pipes, leading to a pressure surge that creates vibrations and banging sounds.

Thanks for the explanation, we had no idea.