Threaded Connections For Copper

[ReadyToGetPlumb]

What are the purpose of threaded connections that people sweat onto copper?

Why not just sweat whatever it is directly on?

Is it to make things in the middle of copper runs easier to replace?

For example, can I just unscrew my pressure regulator from the middle of a run by unscrewing the threaded connections on each side of it?

Could you not just unsweat the connections on each side of it, and pull it out, if it didn’t have the threaded connections?

 

[Reach4]

One still-popular reason is to mount a tub spout that connects to a drop ear elbow or a "twin ell".

People may want to connect water filters that have plastic female threads.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ReadyToGetPlumb]

One still-popular reason is to mount a tub spout that connects to a drop ear elbow or a "twin ell".

People may want to connect water filters that have plastic female threads.

So, are sweated or threaded just as easy to pull out of the middle of a run as each other? Should you just be able to pull water pressure regulators out after removing it’s bonds on each end, or will you also have to temporarily remove pipe runs next to it, usually, as well?

 

[Reach4]

I am not sure what you are asking, but you may be asking how to work with things that are inline with existing pipes. If you are soldering, you can use a repair coupling. The repair coupling can slide onto a pipe. You position the coupling over the gap. You then solder. There are also long repair couplings which you can use to bridge actual gaps.

A lot of plumbers today mostly use "press" connections for copper, which use different fittings. There are special crimp tools to attach. I have never used that.

 

[ReadyToGetPlumb]

I am not sure what you are asking, but you may be asking how to work with things that are inline with existing pipes. If you are soldering, you can use a repair coupling. The repair coupling can slide onto a pipe. You position the coupling over the gap. You then solder. There are also long repair couplings which you can use to bridge actual gaps.

A lot of plumbers today mostly use "press" connections for copper, which use different fittings. There are special crimp tools to attach. I have never used that.

IMG-4448 hosted at ImgBB

Image IMG-4448 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

I’m referring to that. There is no way to replace that without a repair coupling, or is that just the best way?

 

[Reach4]

I think you show a lower valve with a yellow handle, and an pressure reducing valve (PRV) above. The PRV seems to have a union connection on the bottom side, and the upper connection seems threaded. The copper pipe has an adapter soldered onto it, and that adapter is then screwed into the top of the PRV.

Some PRVs can be rebuilt with a kit, and that would probably not require you to pull the PRV outer housing.

What model of PRV is that?

If you do need to replace the PRV totally, that is going to need one or two repair couplings. The repair coupling could be a Sharkbite.

Is this "3/4 inch" copper pipe, which is 7/8 inch (0.825) OD?

Which valve are you looking to replace?


Which way is the water flow.. from bottom upward?

If you want to replace the upper valve, there would be more than one way. But if you are comfortable soldering, then I think using repair couplings would be part of this.

 

[ReadyToGetPlumb]

I think you show a lower valve with a yellow handle, and an pressure reducing valve (PRV) above. The PRV seems to have a union connection on the bottom side, and the upper connection seems threaded. The copper pipe has an adapter soldered onto it, and that adapter is then screwed into the top of the PRV.

Some PRVs can be rebuilt with a kit, and that would probably not require you to pull the PRV outer housing.

What model of PRV is that?

If you do need to replace the PRV totally, that is going to need one or two repair couplings. The repair coupling could be a Sharkbite.

Is this "3/4 inch" copper pipe, which is 7/8 inch (0.825) OD?

Which valve are you looking to replace?


Which way is the water flow.. from bottom upward?

If you want to replace the upper valve, there would be more than one way. But if you are comfortable soldering, then I think using repair couplings would be part of this.

Thanks.

I guess that leads me back to my original inquisitiveness.

What is the purpose of the threaded connection on the PRV? I mean, I guess it makes sense for threaded pipe, like galvanized…

What is a union connection? What is it’s purpose?

Not sure on the brand. I can check that and get back to you.

The water flows upward.

If I have a situation where repair couplings will be needed, couldn’t I, as an alternative, just unsweat the vertical pipe above this picture, where it hits an elbow, and just avoid the repair couplings?

Obviously, I would have to sweat an elbow back on, but that would at least give me a fresh elbow, and achieve the same thing.

 

[Reach4]

1. A threaded connection is easier to undo than a soldered connection, if you want to re-use the piping. It thought the initial question might have been philosophical, rather than purposeful. Would life have seems simpler to you if it had been soldered? This does bring about another advantage to a threaded connection-- not needing the heat, you don't damage the rubber diaphragm in a PRV.

2. A union should be able to be undone, and then the connection moved sideways. I think the nut below the PRV would be turned to the left to loosen that up.

Could you unsweat? I guess so. But suppose you were to remove a section of specified length from the pipe above, using a saw. You could fill that gap with a Sharkbite U3016LF if that was 3/4 inch copper.

Or you could fill the gap with a https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-600-306PK-3-4-x-6-Sweat-Full-Slip-Copper-Repair-Coupling
That one is 6 inches. Twelve inches is also available.

A copper repair coupling goes on the outside of pipe on both ends. You can cut it shorter.

I am not a plumber.

 

[John Gayewski]

There should be a union on one side of that pictured valve.

Un-sweating connections is necessary sometimes, but it's more work than un-threading. Not to mention you can't unsweat something with water in it, so all of the water must be gone to attempt it.

Most times when you undo a sweat joint your going to leave solder behind and have to sand nearly all of it out or else a new pipe won't fit into the used fitting. It can be very tedious to sand solder out of a fitting. A threaded joint with a union would be ideal and is mostly what is done on a piece of equipment or a valve that will need changed out or cleaned semi regularly.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Readytogetplumb,
You seem to get it it . sometimes a sweat connection is easier and sometimes it isnt a sweat connection can be less apt to leak. there are a whole lot of reasons and sometimes we also figure why buy a bunch of adapters and/ or it can take longer to install with little benefit. there is no right answer or wrong answer it depends on many factors

 

[ReadyToGetPlumb]

That all makes sense.

I have asked all the things I have asked because I’m trying to understand the reason for each thing, so I know the best choice to make with this situation I am in, as well as for future plumbing endeavors.

Do they make the double union PRV so you can replace them by unscrewing, and not have to make any modifications to pipe, that would require cutting or soldering?

I don’t understand why you would get threaded on one side, and union on the other? Why not get double union?

 

[Jeff H Young]

That all makes sense.

I have asked all the things I have asked because I’m trying to understand the reason for each thing, so I know the best choice to make with this situation I am in, as well as for future plumbing endeavors.

Do they make the double union PRV so you can replace them by unscrewing, and not have to make any modifications to pipe, that would require cutting or soldering?

I don’t understand why you would get threaded on one side, and union on the other? Why not get double union?

sure double union sweat or double union thread. or single union. down the road though you may wind up cutting pipes any way because you may switch brands due to cost , availability or other preferance. if there is room I normally go double union sweat. but Ive also went with another just to save money

 

[ReadyToGetPlumb]

sure double union sweat or double union thread. or single union. down the road though you may wind up cutting pipes any way because you may switch brands due to cost , availability or other preferance. if there is room I normally go double union sweat. but Ive also went with another just to save money

https://www.amazon.com/Watts-LFN45BM1-DU-S-Technologies-Standard-Capacity/dp/B00LO3F30O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3LDW2MDRUR6FY&keywords=pressure+reducing+valve&qid=1687274197&sprefix=pressure+reducting%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TU55AG?pd_rd_i=B005TU55AG&pf_rd_p=448143aa-62c8-4e54-80d8-44268ab1165b&pf_rd_r=8CHMJBAFQ1PPXK51SRS0&pd_rd_wg=cg9dG&pd_rd_w=WSRzM&pd_rd_r=a50f873e-cb12-4c4c-880f-2c2f048e1e59

I guess I don’t get what makes up the price difference between one that is say, 70, compared to one that is 150?

What features make up the difference?

 

[ReadyToGetPlumb]

1. A threaded connection is easier to undo than a soldered connection, if you want to re-use the piping. It thought the initial question might have been philosophical, rather than purposeful. Would life have seems simpler to you if it had been soldered? This does bring about another advantage to a threaded connection-- not needing the heat, you don't damage the rubber diaphragm in a PRV.

2. A union should be able to be undone, and then the connection moved sideways. I think the nut below the PRV would be turned to the left to loosen that up.

Could you unsweat? I guess so. But suppose you were to remove a section of specified length from the pipe above, using a saw. You could fill that gap with a Sharkbite U3016LF if that was 3/4 inch copper.

Or you could fill the gap with a https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-600-306PK-3-4-x-6-Sweat-Full-Slip-Copper-Repair-Coupling
That one is 6 inches. Twelve inches is also available.

A copper repair coupling goes on the outside of pipe on both ends. You can cut it shorter.

I am not a plumber.

Great info. Thanks.

Thanks to you, as well, John.

 

[Jeff H Young]

https://www.amazon.com/Watts-LFN45BM1-DU-S-Technologies-Standard-Capacity/dp/B00LO3F30O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3LDW2MDRUR6FY&keywords=pressure+reducing+valve&qid=1687274197&sprefix=pressure+reducting%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TU55AG?pd_rd_i=B005TU55AG&pf_rd_p=448143aa-62c8-4e54-80d8-44268ab1165b&pf_rd_r=8CHMJBAFQ1PPXK51SRS0&pd_rd_wg=cg9dG&pd_rd_w=WSRzM&pd_rd_r=a50f873e-cb12-4c4c-880f-2c2f048e1e59

I guess I don’t get what makes up the price difference between one that is say, 70, compared to one that is 150?

What features make up the difference?

Sometimes it has nothing to do with features its the place that sells it. Sometimes its an oddball part that dosent sell that well probebly cost more to manufacture but a place marks it down to unload it. a few guesses ?