Supply Line and Valve Advice...

[buldogge]

Hey guys...1st post here, but I've read and gathered (and used) a lot of great information from this forum, in the past. So thanks for that!

I'm restoring/renovating my 3rd fl bathroom and adding a walk-in shower.

We're using Kohler Purist fixtures.

We will only be utilizing the 2.5 gpm multi-function showerhead, and a TBD rain showerhead, assumed to also be 2.5 gpm.

I have 3/4" copper supply lines coming up to the bathroom...I have installed ball valves and I then T'd off to 1/2" for the dual lav area, where I've wall mounted faucet valving. I currently have 3/4" running to the perimeter of the shower area.

Should I continue the 3/4" right up to reducers at the valve, or should I use a 3/4" valve instead?

Given the 5 gpm total of the shower heads I went ahead and purchased a K-8304 rite-temp temp/volume valve, but I could switch to a K-2971,, if necessary.

The diverter valve, K-728 has a 3/4" inlet and 1/2" outlets (of course), and will simply control each showerhead, or both together.

TIA
-Mark in St. Louis

 

[Martin Boring]

I guess if it was me I would switch the valve and go with 3/4 all the way since you already have the 3/4 in the area. I have never seen any one unhappy with to much water flow even if you don't need it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[buldogge]

Another small question.

The diverter valve has female threading...Do you guys generally just use NPT fittings with sweat-in collars/extensions to run the copper from these type valves, and just use dope on the threaded portion?

TA
-Mark

 

[WorthFlorida]

If you can sweat a fitting, alway go with a soldered connection. As far as GPM. The law states 2.5 GPM. With two heads it doesn't mean 5 GPM.

From CR https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/showerheads/buying-guide/index.htm
Shower Towers
Three multihead models we tested promised a spa-like experience and comprised a fixed or handheld showerhead (or both), and several additional body jets, all mounted on a vertical strip. But more recent action by the Department of Energy has changed how these products work. Initially, shower towers got around the federal 2½-gpm standard by limiting each head or spray to 2½ gpm. Thus, if the unit had four outlets, it could legally use as much as 10 gpm. As of March 2013, the water output of all heads and sprays (that could provide water simultaneously) of these products could not together exceed 2½ gpm. So while you'll still see shower towers sold, you won't see one that lets you turn on all heads or sprays at once. Models we've seen most recently prevent you from using a combination of heads or sprays that exceeds the federal limit.

 

[Jadnashua]

To get the maximum flow out of any outlet like a showerhead, you want to be able to supply more than they can use otherwise, it's like using a hose without a sprayer head on it...it doesn't accelerate as much. Now, if your device can only use 2.5gpm, a 1/2" line should provide all you need. If it's 5gpm or more, you're getting into a more questionable situation...probably okay at 5gpm, but maybe not more. It will still work, but won't work as well as it could.

 

[buldogge]

I broke down, sucked up the loss, and ordered a K-2971 3/4" valve.

Any input/suggestions on sizing of rain showerheads? We are using Kohler Purist for everything else, so I am looking at the various Kohler "contemporary" models...8"-14".

The prices get pretty ridiculous as you go over 12".

Any recommendations for a clean/simple/modern simple round or square rain head that I should take look at? Any to avoid??

TA
-Mark

 

[buldogge]

OK...Getting ready to mount and hook up the Kohler K-2971 shower valve and the K-728 Diverter valve.

Plan on mounting the 2971 48" from the subfloor, and the 728 ~12" (not finalized) above.

I will sweat copper 3/4 NPT fittings/90 strt/12" pipe for each side and then install on the bench with tape/dope before hanging.

1) Is there any issue with going straight into a street 90...this valve is huge, and that would work best in the stud bay, without coming in a straight line thru the next stud bay.

2) For the 3/4 connector to the diverter inlet...both ends use NPT fittings...should I:

a) install both NPT with short stubs (4-6") and coupling solder the middle of the pipe, or
b) try to install the diverter and shower valve already attached together via the connector pipe screwed in at both ends??

TIA
-Mark in St. Louis