Softener valve guidance

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Dgold

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Hello,
Looking for advice on a softener.
I'm on municipal water in San Diego. Water company analysis here claims a max hardness of 310 ppm (depending on the source), but... and I've tested my CH multiple times with a Taylor test kit @ 400 ppm (~24 gpg). From what I've found online, it appears that a 64,000 system will fit my needs.

I do not have any color stains in my toilet tanks, and I do not smell any odor in the water.

In a previous home, I had a Fleck 5600 softener valve, with a 12-day wheel adjustment. While maybe not the most efficient valve ever, it was extremely simple and easy to service. Ten years later, I see that valve is headed for obsolescence, but I've also read that this valve will be available to on-line resellers, and if so, I would suspect parts will remain available for a long time to come. Is this sound logic? I am someone who values simplicity and long-term reliability over digital displays, or maximum efficiency.

I was wondering if the forum would still recommend a 5600 econominder valve - despite the potential that Pentair may discontinue it? Or is there another valve that the forum would recommend?

Lastly, what does the forum recommend in terms of valve material (plastic, brass, stainless), and brine tank shape (round vs square)?

Other info... My home has 3/4 copper supply lines where the softener will be installed, no height / clearance issues, and my water pressure is regulated to 50~55 psi. Two adults, two small kids. No idea what our actual usage is because we also have landscape irrigation (which wouldn't go through the softener).

Thanks very much in advance.
 

Reach4

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A 13" x 54" 2.50 cu. ft. ( nominal "80,000" grains ) of resin would do the job well for 24 grains 4 people. I think the Fleck 5600SXT will do the job nicely on the softener based on the appropriate backwash rate for a 13 inch tank. Bannerman will offer a contrary opinion.
 

ditttohead

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Don't know where you got the idea the 5600 was headed for obsolescence. The valve will be here for many years to come but... it was developed in the 70's and there are many newer more modern and higher efficiency, higher flow rate valves available. The 5600 is still a popular valve by many older dealers who don't believe in that pesky technology. The timeclock valve is not really supposed to be sold in California due to its highly inefficient design. A meter would do you well.
As to the valve material choice, brass valves are neat, but can suffer form pitting over time. Plastic valves (Fleck and Clack) tend to hold up for seems to be an eternity. Stainless residential valves are simply not practical yet but commercial valves will be going that way in the near future. We are already testing some of the newer SS valves.
Stick with high end components, avoid the ultra low cost online companies and you should do fine.
 

Dgold

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Don't know where you got the idea the 5600 was headed for obsolescence.

Sorry, I thought I read that. Upon looking it up again, I see it's the 5000 that's headed for obsolescence, not the 5600. Thanks for correcting me.
 

Mialynette2003

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I've heard the 5600 can not go on tanks larger than 12" (2 CF). That being said, my vote would be a 2 cf 5600 metered system.
 

Reach4

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Snipped from the Service Manual:
IMG_6.png


I don't know how common it is with a softener to bump the backwash (DLFC) up a notch in areas with warmer water. I suspect it is a good idea in Carlsbad. A 13.54 inch diameter tank would have a cross sectional area of 1 ft2 (ft squared). A 13 inch tank is 0.92 ft2. A 12 inch tank is 0.79 ft2. I think 40 to 50% is the target expansion for backwash.
 

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