Shower P Trap

[originaltwotone]

Our shower leaked, I've pulled the pan and am in the middle of replacing the rotted flooring.
The new shower pans drain isn't exactly in the same place, but it's very close. The picture below is how it was originally done.
Just wanted some more knowledgeable opinions on if this is ok. I've gotten to the point of having little trust in tract house contractors do things right vs. fast. Thanks

 

[wwhitney]

That san-tee on the left (3x3x2?) is wrong. It would need to be a combo. And the fitting would generally be rolled flat (2% slope on the side inlet), not rolled up. [You actually can roll it up a little, the restriction is that the 2" line has at least 1/4" per foot slope, and that the bottom inside of the pipe at the trap outlet is below the top inside of the 2" side entry on the fitting connecting to the 3" line (that's the trap weir rule). So maybe the amount of roll is OK, I can't tell from the picture.]

The above assumes that upstream on the 3" line is only bathroom fixtures, one of which is dry vented, so that the 3" line can wet vent the shower. So please tell us what is upstream and how it is vented.

Also, is that double 45 downstream just a horizontal offset, or is it rolled down so the 3" line loses some extra altitude compared to just being at 2% everywhere? If the former, it would more be direct to connect the shower trap arm to the downstream 3" line, e.g. by replacing the 2nd 45 with a wye. But if the latter, that would explain why it was connected upstream of the offset, because the 3" line is higher there. The concern, of course, is that the geometry needs to allow you to comply with the trap weir rule without having the trap hit the ceiling drywall or stick out into the room below.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[originaltwotone]

Thanks for the response. Based on my research I didn't this T and the other upstream was ok.
The shower and tub are 1 1/2'' and the sinks are 2''

I can't say if there is an upstream vent without tearing out the drywall on the sink side of the bath to check.

I'm geussing the double 45 was to clear the shower drain, otherwise the 3'' pipe could have continued to the tub and sink.

Here is the upstream picture:

Here is the downstream picture:

 

[Jeff H Young]

Dont have to do it wrong to be fast , some guys can blow and go but still build a decent quality and good value. but wayne points out some poor workmanship that makes us all look bad. but it happens

 

[Sylvan]

Our shower leaked, I've pulled the pan and am in the middle of replacing the rotted flooring.
The new shower pans drain isn't exactly in the same place, but it's very close. The picture below is how it was originally done.
Just wanted some more knowledgeable opinions on if this is ok. I've gotten to the point of having little trust in tract house contractors do things right vs. fast. Thanks
View attachment 90813

This is AMAZING This is what should be on the error sheet on the plumbing test for 2nd-year apprentices

The next person who has to snake this line has to be one of the world's best to be able to pass a cable through 540 DEGREES of fittings including the trap. A truly amazing accomplishment

 

[originaltwotone]

Would this be the best way to replace and fix the issue:

 

[John Gayewski]

I think if you replaced the 3" 45 that is downstream with a wye you can do away with what you have.

 

[wwhitney]

Would this be the best way to replace and fix the issue:

That's an improvement, but as per my earlier comment, the bottom of the inside of the pipe at point A below has to be lower in elevation than the top inside of the 2" branch of the fitting at point B. Your picture makes it look like that's not true. You would need to raise the combo relative to the p-trap until that is true.

As to the best way to fix things, I don't quite understand how picture #2 (the second picture in the thread, the first picture in post #3) relates to picture #1, i.e. what piping is in between. But most likely you should remove the fitting under the word "Upstream" in picture #2, as it should also be a combo, and remove all the way to the downstream most 45 in picture #1. Then you can rebuild everything in between using the proper fittings and a routing that complies with the trap weir rule and doesn't have so many elbows.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[John Gayewski]

 

[originaltwotone]

I was planning on replacing the 2nd T leading to the tub and sinks.
I can't really raise the 3'' pipe, when you look at pic 2 you can see it's at the height the sink drains comes through the joist. It also has to clear the toilet supply in pic 3.

Hopefully this drawing helps explain the situation a little better:

 

[originaltwotone]

View attachment 90827

Thanks, hopefully my drawing shows the situation better.
Would 2'' be enough for a shower, tub and 2 sinks? Granted they are never all draining at same time.

 

[John Gayewski]

Thanks, hopefully my drawing shows the situation better.
Would 2'' be enough for a shower, tub and 2 sinks? Granted they are never all draining at same time.

First off yes a 2"is enough. But if you look at my drawing the 3"stays. Only the shower trap arm is 2". The 3x2 goes on the straight portion of the wye. Your just cutting out a 45 and inserting a wye.

 

[originaltwotone]

Thanks, I had a long day yesterday when I looked at it and it didn't click.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I dont see post number 9 working that john proposed the p trap would be below cieling without other modification

 

[John Gayewski]

I dont see post number 9 working that john proposed the p trap would be below cieling without other modification

Once you switch to smaller pipe there's space for the p trap.

 

[originaltwotone]

Even switching to smaller pipe, the P-trap will still be above the height of the 3'' pipe. I can't raise the 3'' pipe and it's basically on the drywall ceiling, I'd still have to 45 the ptrap down to the 3''-2'' plug in the Wye.

 

[wwhitney]

The limit described in post #8 (similar situation described here: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....onnected-to-the-main-line.104066/#post-744016 ) must be adhered to for wet venting the shower. If you don't, your shower trap can siphon and you can get sewer gases in your shower.

If you can't comply with that limit, then you'll need to vent the shower separately. E.g. put the p-trap at the height you want, run the shower drain horizontally until under or next to a wall into which you can pull off a dry vent (at exactly 1/4" per foot fall, you have up to 8' of run to reach the vent takeoff), and only then connect the shower drain to your other drains.

How far off in elevation are you from making the wet vent work?

Cheers, Wayne

 

[John Gayewski]

Even switching to smaller pipe, the P-trap will still be above the height of the 3'' pipe. I can't raise the 3'' pipe and it's basically on the drywall ceiling, I'd still have to 45 the ptrap down to the 3''-2'' plug in the Wye.

I'm going to have to model this up. It looks to me like a 2" trap will work as I described.

 

[wwhitney]

I'm going to have to model this up. It looks to me like a 2" trap will work as I described.

If you look at the first photo in the thread (the photo in the OP), it's unclear what the elevation of the 3x3x2 sanitary tee (wrong fitting) is above the drywall ceiling below. If the 3x3x2 fitting barrel is too low, then given the height of a 2" trap u-bend, there will be a height mismatch.

On the other hand, picture 2 in the thread (first picture in post #3) looks like at the upstream point shown the 3x3x2 sanitary tee (still the wrong fitting) is high enough within the joist bay that the 3" line could be extended to the shower trap area with enough elevation. So as that 3x3x2 sanitary tee needs changing out anyway, the solution may be to replace everything between there and the shower drain connection, making sure the new 3" line is at just 1/4" per foot pitch, so that there is no height mistmatch at the shower drain connection. Then if necessary to reconnect to the downstream 3" line, a pair of 22.5s or 45s can be used to jog the 3" line downward after the shower connection.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jeff H Young]

The 3 inch is basicaly down on the drywall from what I see. I dont see a 2 inch trap going on there without poking through cieling. looking like it would be 4 inches into room below maybe I dont see something right
rasing the line higher of cource works if there is still fall left for the LAV , as wayne mentioned