Shimming second toilet on tiled floor.. No shims fit!

[Electricview]

Sorry to start another thread on this, but i've got my second toto drake on my tiled bathroom floor, the tile job is much better this time, with only slight off height tiles.. I have actually 2 toto drake bottoms and they both wobble differently.. One of them has more front to back wobble and WILL Fit a shim in the VERY back back, but then i cant find any other shims in the sides and thatis where the remainder of the wobble lies (side to side mostly with a TINy bit of corner/front back woble, but its all like 32nd inch slight movement stuff).

The second toilet is like that but all around, none of the Composite shims from home depot fit or any of the clear plastic ones from local places fit. I can get a credit card in just barely but that doesnt have any kind of 'ramp' to it so it doesnt quiet do the job, (but gets it closer). This side to side wobble is like TINY like a 32nd of an inch or less.. it might actually be in 3 places i cant tell.

Should i just put the wax ring on and see if that helps lessen it? or do i need to stop absolutely ALL wobble before i go to that step? btw i did NOT tighten down any nuts onto the bolts.. This was just 'set' onto the bolts.

Also i've decided to try a regular oatley wax ring, as my flange is almost DEAD flat with the tile (laying a level across the top there's virtually no gap (like a human hair) between the flange and level. and since the toilet isn't needing a 1/4th inch shim like my first one, i figured a regular wax ring would work since the drake isn't that deep?

 

[Terry]

I shim at the back of the bowl, pinning the front of the bowl down. I sometimes use two shims, one on each side, making it a three point set. Two points of contact at the back, and the front of the bowl for the third.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

The second toilet is like that but all around, none of the Composite shims from home depot fit or any of the clear plastic ones from local places fit. I can get a credit card in just barely but that doesnt have any kind of 'ramp' to it so it doesnt quiet do the job,

I measure a composite shim at a little over 0.05 inch at the tip, and a standard credit card is 0.03 thick.

Rub the tip of your shim on sandpaper or a file to taper it to what you want.

If you use a waxless ring, you don't have to worry about rocking the toilet during the shim placement. I am not a pro.

 

[Electricview]

I shim at the back of the bowl, pinning the front of the bowl down. I sometimes use two shims, one on each side, making it a three point set. Two points of contact at the back, and the front of the bowl for the third.

Oh wow so you are actually lifting the toilet with the two shims in the back. Does this put any undue stress on those three points of the toilet? or is that no concern?

Also are you using the softer 'rubber' shims there? I saw those in the store but worried over time the rubber would compress down and may cause an issue?

Lastly if i do this method, Should iuse a double thick wax ring with the black funnel peice to be safe?

 

[Terry]

After installing, I caulk most of the way around the bowl. Regardless, there is no problem with bowl integrity. Those are rubber shims.
If the flange is lower than the finished floor, I stack two wax rings.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Let's make it two votes on the caulk.

 

[EmyJ]

This might be useful :

I would use this type of shim.
Push them under the edge of the toilet as far as you can, mark the extra sticking out with a pen then cut off the un-needed part.
After you caulk in the bottom of the toilet they will never move. I'd shim it, trim it, caulk it, and forget about it.
We also calk are toilets down. But we don't do a small section in the back so that if the wax seal fails the leak will become apparent.
any material that will support the bowls weight could be used to shim it.Keeping the shims from shifting ,is poly seam seals ideal use.But any anti mold anti fungal seal is best.

 

[Terry]

You absolutely don't shim the front of a bowl. Who is this dork?